Helston, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Jude Kereama’s blend of Asian, New Zealand and West Country cuisines never fails to delight” (with “exciting” tasting menus a highlight) at this harbourside restaurant-with-rooms – and, “despite the increasing competition for quality cooking in Porthleven, it remains ahead of the pack”. The chef (also behind Kota Kai) was due to add a third string to his bow in Carnon Downs holiday apartment complex the Valley, but the long-awaited arrival was apparently nixed by Covid.

“Amazing ramen” is just one highlight of the “lovely menu” at chef Jude Kereama’s second venue, sister to nearby Kota. There’s plenty of seafood, along with dishes inspired by Jude’s New Zealand and Asian heritage. “Fab views over the harbour just across the road” are another reason to visit.

2023 Review: “Simply all that you could desire of a gastropub” – this attractive twelfth-century inn welcomes everyone from walkers from the nearby SW Coast Path near St Michael’s Mount to dog walkers with its enjoyable bistro-style food – “good Sunday lunch” in particular.

2023 Review: This “glorious spot” by the sea, close to the SW coastal path and with a front-conservatory to take advantage of sea views, was taken over by high-profile chef Michael Caines of Lympstone Manor in 2020. Quell hopes of any culinary fireworks, though – reports here didn’t hit the heights this year, with the experience too often “let down by chaotic service and pedestrian food”.

Set within a “beautiful sculpture park” outside Penzance hosting works by art-world stars James Turrell and Richard Long amongst others, this pleasant eight-year-old restaurant offers an “excellent selection of vegetarian dishes” (but not just) and classic cream teas. Stop in for the “lovely brunch and then walk it off” in the grounds – or else grab a takeaway from their hut, and picnic on the hill with views of St Michael’s Mount.

“A seriously interesting tasting menu and a view to die for!” are helping to win ever-greater acclaim for Adam Handling’s (of London’s ‘Frog’ fame) “beautiful venue overlooking Carbis Bay” from a new luxury beachside estate on the fringes of St Ives. Menus start with a five-course selection for £110 per head, with the option to add oysters, caviar, truffles and wine matching. “It doesn’t come cheap”, but most reporters felt this year that “it’s worth every penny”: “from the brilliant cocktails to the ‘snacks’ you feed on faultless innovative courses (crab, turbot, asparagus, lamb, desserts) and some dishes are mind-blowing (e.g. sourdough muffin with brown crabmeat butter and a reveal of an exquisite crab tart)”. “Incredible to have this high-class restaurant in Cornwall”.

An “impressive location” commanding sea views to St Clement’s Isle makes this seaside hotel a “great place for fish and seafood” landed just two miles away at Newlyn. It’s a lesser-known (and less highly rated) sibling to the Gurnard’s Head and the Felin Fach Griffin in Wales.

“Exquisite cooking, with fish straight from the Atlantic” again wins very high ratings for Bruce Rennie’s very personal 14-seater, where service is by the man himself. Seafood is the speciality here and there are lots of Japanese accents used in the preparation of the six-course tasting menu. No walk-ins, as the fish is purchased in the morning for the number of reservations.

There’s no quibbling with the “view to die for” at this beachside café, and they also turn out some “delicious food” including “great fish ’n’ chips”; while it’s not quite what it was, having unsuccessfully essayed various formats in recent times, and is “now closed for breakfast (they do takeaway) which is the best time of day to visit”, “its location continues to be perfect”.

Olga Polizzi’s “wonderful hotel” – a whitewashed former yacht club – is the stuff of interior mag dreams, with its ultra-chic rooms and unbeatable seafront location on the edge of picturesque St. Mawes; it’s not all about show, though, with credit again this year for the “delicious food” (even if, according to one regular, “service is not what it once was”). Visitors can eat in the main dining room, with views of St Anthony’s Lighthouse, or more informal Dog’s Head bar.

“St Ives has so many places to eat, but this is a favourite” – “right in the middle of the seafront, and because it’s on the first floor you have a great view of the harbour and beach”. “The menu has plenty of fish options, but the meat-eater is also catered for”, while “the food quality is good, even if the options are not that innovative”.

2022 Review: “Interesting food in an intimate dining room” makes Nigel Tabb’s former pub a “favourite local fine-dining venue”, making “great use of local Cornish ingredients”. It also helps that there’s a “small but well-constructed wine list which offers exceptional value”. It’s “a little difficult to find, away from the centre of Truro, but worth the effort”.

2023 Review: This “hidden gem just outside Truro” from husband-and-wife team Ben & Sam Harmer features “impressive” cooking, “exceptional service” and a “splendid outdoor eating area” for warmer weather. Ben’s classical training took in the kitchens of The Savoy and Le Gavroche – hence “the soufflé is impressive”.

2022 Review: A “fabulous location with stunning views of the Fal Estuary” remains the main draw to this smart quayside brasserie, though its “good, varied menu” is “well presented and precisely cooked” too. Getting a window seat is something of a challenge – as is getting a spot for breakfast and brunch, so think of booking ahead.

Hylton Espey and his wife Petronella are already winning awards for their hyper-seasonal approach with many foraged ingredients at their ambitious yearling, on Custom House Quay: a 30-seat venue presenting a seven-course menu for £75 per person. As yet, we’ve had too limited feedback for a definitive rating, but all reports to-date are ecstatic.

“A real find” – this “outstanding small eats” spot has an open kitchen which sources its fish, seafood, beef, charcuterie, salad leaves, potatoes, pinot noir, rosé, beer, cider, gin, vodka, rum, soft drinks and more from Cornwall – “keep up the good work”, say fans, who apparently include Rick Stein!