City Of Edinburgh, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Were our reporters just unlucky this year at this famous dining room in one of the city’s most imposing hotels? Named for King Louis XV of France’s favourite mistress, its muralled ceiling and opulent decor are in contrast to the cutting-edge style of star chef Dean Banks’s eight-course tasting menu for £105 per person. But whereas there’s a host of enthusiastic reviews of the experience to be found online, our feedback this year was limited and downbeat: “was expecting great things from DB at the Pompadour but ended up really disappointed”.

Credited with introducing the principles of ‘new Nordic’ cuisine to Scottish ingredients, the Radford family’s converted Victorian warehouse (originally built as a props & costume store) impresses all who visit with its foraged or pickled produce and low-intervention wines. Last year it celebrated its tenth anniversary and opened a spin-off wine bar/restaurant, Montrose House, in the Abbeyhill area. The entry-level option for dining here is a five-course tasting menu for £95 per person.

Paul Gunning’s casual Stockbridge fine-diner, set in a “small” but classy basement, combines “friendly staff” and “wonderful food”: either a five- or seven-course tasting menu by night, or the “excellent value” two- or three-course set lunch. (We’ve continued its ratings this year, albeit on relatively limited feedback).

Stuart Ralston’s New Town follow-up to Aizle combines a “cool, NY-style vibe with Asian-inspired plates” (and is named after a former NY roomate of his); by all accounts it’s a “fun place to be” (if “a little dark as a space”), particularly for those who “love small plates” that are “absolutely delicious” too (“you could feel the care and passion from the kitchen”).