The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy returned to an establishment now five years old that she believes has done more than any other to spark the Scottish capital’s “dazzling gold rush” of brilliant restaurants in recent years – a “modern yet nostalgic Scottish-European brasserie-ish restaurant” that makes her proud to live in the city.
“Pleasure, of the buttery, boozy, beautifully sauced and bedecked-in-pastry kind is at the heart of everything” cooked here by Australian chef Lloyd Morse. A fat-banded hunk of Berkshire pork in a technically flawless marsala sauce is “the most stunning piece of meat I’ve eaten in a very long time”.
Every cut part of the animal is used in dishes like pig’s head and dandelion salad, pig-skin ragu on toast or skewers of chicken combs, gizzards and hearts grilled over charcoal. Whole mackerel and creamed sweetcorn show how well fish and veg are treated. And “do not, I warn you, fill up so much that you can’t manage dessert. They are legendary here”, Chitra declared, after finishing up with chocolate and hazelnut tart and lemon posset with meringue and crème de cassis.
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-09-13
