Bovey Tracey Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Beautifully situated on Dartmoor, this rural pub was consistently well-reviewed this year for its hearty and enjoyable bistro-style menu (it’s not a pub grub kind of place). There are nine bedrooms, too, and – if you stay – there’s the additional option of a lighter early bird supper.

“Right by the beach with lovely sunset views across to Dartmoor” (particularly from the terrace), this is the place to “indulge yourself with a huge seafood platter of fresh crab and oysters”; these days it’s “no longer just a ‘shack’” as of yore (reflected in the prices, a perennial quibble), but is “now serving up a more sophisticated menu” spanning cocktails and roast lobster.

“What a remarkable find!” – “the freshest produce served in the most delicious and inventive ways” makes any meal at this canteen on the veg box operation’s south Devon farm “a very special occasion”. Established by Guy Singh-Watson 21 years ago, “the emphasis is on the fresh organic produce picked in the surrounding fields, possibly that same morning” – “every time you go there are more surprises, there’s more flavour, and more dishes that amaze meat-eaters and veggies alike”. (“I still miss the pre-Covid long tables with sharing bowls, and especially the pudding buffet” – but it’s “still very reasonably priced”).

“What a relief… the departure of Chris Eden in late 2024 doesn’t seem to have rocked the boat” according to reports on this famous culinary destination, which seems finally to have regained a more impressive culinary stride in recent years. As one regular notes, “Michelin must have thought so, too in continuing in 2025 the (deserved) one star award after the appointment of Ian Webber [in February 2025] as the new chef – who fortuitously trained at Gidleigh in the Michael Caines days – and who the hotel knew would be a set of very capable hands”. Down a narrow lane on the edge of Dartmoor, you turn a corner to suddenly find yourself in this “gorgeous” ‘Tudorbethan’ mansion in scenic grounds by the moor. “It’s a thoroughly professional but relaxed operation” with service that’s “friendly and attentive without being overdone” and whose “imaginative and assured cooking matches the surroundings”. And, you don’t have to indulge in tedious tasting menus either with the menu format here being a good ol’ fashioned three course à la carte, be it at lunch for £75 per person; or dinner for £135 per person.

An “Exeter classic” that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year – this “hugely enjoyable” basement winebar/restaurant in the city centre is “a most reliable” option in the area for a catch-up with friends over a meal and a glass of wine. “There are two dining rooms, one is warm and has a buzz, the overspill is cooler and less characterful”, while in the summer the walled gardens make an ideal hideaway.

With its “totally delicious food, well presented with attentive and friendly service”, this family-run bistro close to the harbour is “difficult to fault” – its attractively priced menu is designed around daily fish and seafood deliveries from Brixham, with plenty of alternatives for fishphobes.

The seven-course ‘celebration of seafood’ tasting menu is “a great experience” at this rather splendid restaurant-with-rooms – an early 18th-century coaching inn rescued from dereliction 15 years ago. Gidleigh-trained chef-patron Tom Williams-Hawkes is a fish specialist who also runs wet fish deli Salt at the front of the building. They also serve light lunches and afternoon teas.

2023 Review: “We love the Rockfish chain” – and “Exmouth is our favourite”, say fans of Mitch Tonks’s West Country seafood group, which had eight branches as we went to press, with two more (Salcombe and Topsham) about to open, along with an online seafood market and a pioneering canned-fish operation. Despite being a multiple, it offers “top seafood, and the staff seem really passionate about the subject”.

“Fabulous and tasty sustainable local food” takes centre stage at this revamped boozer from ‘ethical publican’ Geetie Singh-Watson, one half of an organic food power-couple (husband Guy Singh-Watson founded veg box outfit Riverford). The “delicious and interesting dishes” on the menu follow her ‘Nine No-Bull Rules To Dine By’, focusing on supplier-led seasonal and organic ingredients. Top Menu Tip – “the no-waste cod’s head and cheeks”.

“A totally dependable Torquay fine dining stalwart, located within English Sparkling wine cork’s popping distance from the marina and practically next door to the very smart yacht club”. “It has held a Michelin Star for years, and deservedly so” say fans thanks to the “sophisticated and imaginative cooking beautifully served in a fine dining room”. “Suits both a special occasion dinner or a nice, and extremely good value, lunch be it for business or pleasure”.

“Quality fresh fish served beautifully and Champagne to chase it down is always a winner” at the Stacey family’s “quiet spot by the harbour”, whose “basic decor makes it even better” – it’s “a favourite in Torquay”, and many regulars agree it’s “better than many more well-known places in Cornwall”. There’s an equally unpretentious wine bar upstairs, with great views over Torbay.

2024 Review: “This really was a very pleasant surprise” – a “small but very lively” osteria, set in a former Lloyds bank, that draws its name and inspiration from the Emilia-Romagna region; the “interesting, daily changing menu” is chalked up on the old vault door, and revolves around a “selection of delicious small plates” (including a particularly “stunning” ‘offal of the day’ option).

Dan & Katie Goto’s humble Japanese café relocated to Exeter from Plymouth in 2020 and is one of the beacons of decent eating to be had in this still very under-served city: “A top choice in town. Book well ahead or you will be disappointed. Surely time to move to bigger premises, guys!”

“Moved from a nearby location into the cliff-top space formerly occupied by Hamilton’s” – this relaunched venue “is a new ‘Top Gun for the retirees of Babbacombe”. Too few ratings so far for a rating, but such feedback as we have is promising, regarding its conventional but well-prepared cuisine which can be enjoyed up till Thursday with a prix-fixe deal (two courses for £30, three courses for £34 – at weekends the same dishes are ordered à la carte). Top Menu Tips – “Creedy Carver duck breast, and the accompanying blackberry purée and duck jus was enriching and affirming. Creamy, rich and heart-warming gratin potatoes, with assertive nutmeg. Beef cheek braised in Guinness, with bubble and squeak, topped with beef fat crumb was submissive, crumbly meat with intense umami flavors embracing the starch and vegetable crack-house addictiveness of bubble ’n’ squeak”.

A former MasterChef: The Professionals contestant, and winner of the ‘South-West Chef of the Year’ competition in 2024, overachieving head chef Harrison Brockington was just 20 when he helped to open this venture in 2019. “Independent, innovative and brilliant”, according to a visiting Londoner, it showcases dishes sourced or foraged from the fields, shoreline, rivers and hedgerows of Devon, and then played out via a £90 tasting menu (or ‘Half Tasting’ version at £60), as well as a two- or three-course set menu.

“High levels are set in this restaurant in the grounds of Lympstone Manor” – Michael Caines’s sleek venue overlooks the outdoor heated pool of his glamorous hotel and provides a contemporary and laid-back alternative to the more formal style of the main property. Given the fixed-price nature of the menu, there are cheaper places for a burger, pasta or Caesar salad, but overall feedback suggests that it stacks up for a taste of affordable luxury.

On Sandridge Barton wine estate overlooking the River Dart in the South Hams, taking over the venue that was Circa, this new restaurant from an experienced team promises bold European and Basque-style bistro cooking. Open only for lunch, with Friday and Saturday dinner following later in 2025.