Harden's survey result
With his “technically accomplished” cooking of “ingredients he sources locally, including from his own farm in nearby Brixham” and “day-boat Brixham fish that remains a marvel”, “much-admired chef” Simon Hulstone’s well-known destination in a Georgian terrace provides “sophisticated dining in South Devon”. Its ratings are dragged down however, by its toppish prices and those who query “where’s the spark: perfectly OK but it didn’t leave me jumping for joy”.
“Simon Hulstone’s sensational food is all about delivering flavour by showcasing ingredients, which he does wonderfully”, according to most reports on the TV-chef’s accoladed venture, in a Georgian terrace, which they applaud as “an intimate hideaway with great views”. “It lacks that special feel” to some diners, though, and ratings have slipped noticeably in the past couple of years, with gripes about food which, especially at the high prices, is “good but not mind-blowing” (“I don’t have a clue as to how it got a Michelin star”).
Simon Hulstone’s “friendly” indie “continues to maintain high standards” – and this despite “the chef’s frequent absences to do TV”; there’s the odd sceptic for whom this restaurant in a Georgian terrace doesn’t justify the tyre men’s hype, but fans say that the tasting menus are “quite simply sublime”.
“The name suggests a sense of humour”, but there’s no mocking Simon Hulstone’s “beautifully cooked and presented” cuisine (“most ingredients come from the Hulstone farm, and the freshness is quite evident”). For good buzz mid-week, Wednesday is ‘free wine’ day.
|Wine per bottle||£26.00|
3-4 Beacon Ter, Harbourside, Torquay, TQ1 2BH
|Number of Diners:|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9 pm|