‘Good Times’ promised at Elystan Street backer’s new Holborn ‘drinking den’


Seasoned restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas (a partner in Phil Howard’s Elystan Street and KitchenW8 restaurants) is one of the partners in May 2019 debut Gezellig: a ‘good times’ venture, which has taken over the grand and characterful Holborn site some will still remember as Shanghai Blues (or more recently, a branch of Burger & Lobster).

If you are Dutch, you will know, apparently, that Gezellig means “an atmosphere which allows good times to happen”.

As Shanghai Blues, the interior of this grade II listed space was always a major highlight, and a similarly impressive setting is promised in its new incarnation. “The design mood will have a bit of a nod to early 20th century style” we are told.

Spaced over two levels, the double-height ground floor of this neo-classical building houses 50 covers, as well as bar-top seating for 15. The main bar will be on the mezzanine level overlooking the restaurant.

Co-venturers Wieteke Teppema, Graham Long and James Comyn have CVs spanning The Square, Elystan Street, Pied à Terre, L’Autre Pied and The Ledbury.

At Gezellig they will aim to replicate their successful pop-up at Carousel in London in May 2017.

According to Comyn, an amiably boozy style is a major component of what they are trying to achieve: a “relaxed atmosphere where we would be happy to spend all of our time. As much as Gezellig will be about great food, we do also want to craft a bit of a drinking den.”

Highlighting the wine side of the Gezellig operation, Wieteke added: “We are all wine lovers, and our list will be priced to be drunk and enjoyed. If we like a wine, it will go on the list. If customers enjoy the classics from Germany, Burgundy, Piedmont and the Rhone Valley, then they will be delighted with our selections…and the odd orange wine may also find its way onto the list. And we are looking at lots of fine wine but without the high price tags.” The constantly evolving wine list will feature approximately 350 bins, starting from £25 (bottle), with 20 available by the glass (from £5).

Chef Graham Long’s food is “not about dressing up dishes, rather letting the produce speak for itself, and not being afraid to keep things simple”. It doesn’t sounds like exactly what you’d knock up at home though with sample dishes including Pot Roast Turnip, Duck Hearts, Liver Parfait, Sorrel and Sweet Duck Broth;Roast Loin of Suckling Pig, Crispy Belly and Braised Shoulder, Anchovy, Monks Beard and Jansson’s Temptation (to share for two) and Apricot and Camomile Tart.

In addition to the à la carte menu, there will be a set lunch at £25 for two courses, and the bar will offer a menu of snacks and small plates.

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