Harden’s review of the reviews


Can a pie be life-affirming? Marina O’Laughlin certainly makes Portland’s sound so

The Guardian reviewer loves this recently opened Fitzrovia venture from the Quality Chop House’s Will Lander. “…it takes reservations and doesn’t charge like a rhino.”


Meanwhile The Observer’s Jay Rayner is on another one of his jaunts, this time in Lyon

The critic-in-chief gives his opinion on Le Canut es les Gones – a place that takes its hearty, working class meals very seriously.


Over at the Independent Tracey Macloed pays a visit to Alan Yau’s latest venture

Babaji, a Turkish pizzeria on London’s perrennially tourist-filled Shaftesbury Avenue, serves up a mixed feast – the Topkapi chicken gets a thumbs up but other dishes are “oddly forgettable”.


Contender for the worst meal of last week? Zoe Williams finds little to like at Kouzou

The Telegraph’s critic has nothing good to say about the room… and then the food came: variously described as “vile”, “joyless” and “rather depressing”.


Fay Maschler visits Chai Wu, the new Chinese restaurant at Harrods from the folks behind Mango Tree

The Evening Standard’s long-time reviewer enjoys some of her dishes (like coconut prawns and salt and pepper squid) but can’t get past the ‘ludicrous’ prices.


Meanwhile Fay’s fellow Standard critic heads to Covent Garden’s Clos Maggiore

It was voted London’s most romantic restaurant in our survey again this year but Grace Dent finds little to love at Clos Maggiore. Perhaps because she wasn’t seated in the twinkly conservatory?


Giles Coren is thrilled by Thai barbecue spot the Smoking Goat

Just reading the name of this relatively new addition to Covent Garden has The Times critic drooling as he recalls to Charles Lamb’s 1822 A Dissertation Upon Roast Pig.


The Sunday Times’s Camilla Long is much less impressed by paleo restaurant Pure Taste

She describes this Notting Hill newcomer, with its complex dietary requirements, as a place “for people who actually hate food”.


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