Mayfair, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

“Like a stately ship, Murano glides on” and Angela Hartnett’s “sophisticated but relaxed” Mayfair HQ remains incredibly popular for its un-forced style, particularly for a special “romantic” occasion. Some dishes “put a nice twist on Italian staples” in line with Angela’s heritage, but the cuisine is in fact better characterised as modern European. Chef George Ormond maintains Angela’s “hallmark culinary style” – “deceptively simple preparation puts the emphasis on bringing out the flavour, while avoiding unnecessary faff”; while the “clever menu is designed so you can have any number of courses”. (“The depth of tastes in supposedly simple dishes such as mushroom tagliatelle, as well as the quality of the amuse bouches and breads will just put a smile on your face… less pretentious than some, the focus on excellent ingredients expertly cooked is impressive”). There’s “a lovely ambience” too, which owes more to the “attentive but not overly formal” service than to the “luxurious” furnishings. Despite all these positives, however, this was not a strong year for its ratings in the survey, with marks dragged down by a few uncharacteristic accusations of it being “overrated” and “not worth the cost”.