Marylebone, Middle Eastern Restaurant Guide

“You will want to lick the plate” if you brunch (the highpoint) at one of Yotam Ottolenghi’s inspired deli-cafés, whose creation in 2002 helped created the TV fame of the owner, and started to popularise the Middle Eastern-influenced cuisine that’s swept London and even now is seen as fashionable. The formula is little changed: “tasty, healthy and yummy dishes” that are “beautifully flavoured” but “a bit on the pricey side”. “Ottolenghi is the master of flavoursome veg (with more veg choices than at most non-veg restaurants)” and, in particular “the cakes are wonderful!”. (Also, “they’re great on allergens.”). On the downside, “space is tight” and the “ambience could be more relaxed”. There’s also a feeling in some quarters that “Yotam has become a brand and it shows”, with food that is “good but after a while same-y”.

“The flavours are big, the combinations exciting and the breads fluffy” at these “cheerful and helpful” Eastern-Med cafés, created by (self-taught chef) Limor Chen and husband Amir, which have won a good degree of renown for their “sharing plate concept” of “creative Middle Eastern dishes” with a good level of “balance, imagination and good value”; and “although there are an increasing number of Middle Eastern restaurants in London, these are some of the very best”. Their original in Marylebone and rather "beautiful" new ‘Townhouse’ in Covent Garden are the most popular branches, although the one in Shoreditch is consistently well-rated too.

“The combination of ingredients is always amazing and food is always fresh” at Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich’s modern Levantine grill house, near Great Portland Street. The couple hit fame with Honey & Co (see also) whose original site was nearby and fans “Love the Honey & ... eastern Med ethos with its delicious food” (grilled meat, fish, veg plus mezze and salads). It’s not a cosy spot, though (“expected it to have a similar feel to the old Honey & Co… it doesn’t!”)

2023 Review: Initially launched as part of an invite-only private members’ club, John Javier’s small (34-cover) August 2022 newcomer in Fitzrovia is his first venture featuring Middle Eastern cuisine, zhushed up with – for instance – Asian seasonings, plus funky cocktails and wines. Expect Bedouin-style décor, DJs and live music.