The Times
Giles Coren was mostly impressed by a new restaurant inspired by the south of France, while pointing out that on a foggy mid-winter day, the menu offered Lucques olives, panisse with anchoïade, beignets de brandade, sea bass crudo, clams with wine and parsley … Summer food! Because, you see, Marylebone is now the home of the international super-rich, the Dubai of W1. And for them, it is always summer.”
That said, he enjoyed some beignets de brandade, “fried crisp like bubble and squeak”; panisses served with a triumphant anchoïade, heavy on the capers; clams with white wine, parsley and samphire that were “terrific: rich and garlicky, salty, big flavour”; and spinach and basil linguine that was a “very special dish indeed. A small tangle of bright green pasta. So green. Green as goblins.”
Less impressive were a dull sea bass crudo with fennel and yuzu; bouillabaisse croquettes that were “gluey balls. Like fishy Copydex”; and an ibérico chop that needed “a bit of a char on it. A bit of crisping on the fat”.
Giles Coren - 2026-01-11
