London Haggerston Restaurant Guide

This “buzzy and enjoyable location” for “very well-executed Mediterranean small dishes” is the more casual offspring of Sam & Sam Clark’s Moro next door in Exmouth Market – and now has its own spin-off in Hackney Road. The original Spanish/Moorish fusion has taken on additional influences from further afield, including Crete and the Middle East. Top Menu Tip – “good cheese fritters with Cretan honey and Cretan sausage and yoghurt with first rate flatbread”.

“Simple… seasonal… superb” sums up chef-patron Ed Wilson’s approach at this East London fixture, near Columbia Road flower market – and after 15 years, “the food is better than ever”. “Despite the carnivorous name (and logo!)” the menu also incorporates “impressive and delicately cooked fish and seafood”. Natural wines are a big theme – “uber cool, weird and wonderful bottles that taste better than they look” – “but there’s lots for the traditional palate, too”. Top Tip – “go on weekday lunchtimes to avoid booking”.

“Sublimely executed feelgood nosh of the highest charcoal-grilled order” has attracted a “devoted fan base” for this Middle East/North Africa-inspired grill in a Haggerston railway arch, and its shawarma bar spinoff in Exmouth Market. Ten years on, its feedback – though consistently excellent – no longer scales the hyper-dizzying peaks it once did, perhaps because founder Josh Katz is increasingly focused on his newer, multi-site project, Carmel (see also).

This “beautifully designed wine drinkers’ hangout” (both a restaurant and a wine store) in a pair of Haggerston railway arches has “a cellar full of real rarities, super-knowledgeable and hospitable owner and staff. It’s the creation of a Franco-Australian duo, founder Jonathan Alphandery and ex-P Franco chef Seb Myers, and its stimulating menu is made with the wine in mind”: “dishes presenting elegant and fresh modern twists on French and Nordic cookery”. Club members get priority booking and can store their wine in the cellars, but members of the public can eat in the restaurant and one or two enjoyed their “meal of the year” here.

“In Little Vietnam in Shoreditch”, this brisk and busting canteen is an “institution” and, if nothing else, “scores well in its hygiene score by the standards of the area!” Service “if a little chaotic, is friendly” and its “home-style cooking, while not amazingly delicate, has plenty of choice, including very tasty pho”.

This 15-strong London noodle chain (now with branches in Brighton, Birmingham and Bristol) is “a good stand-by” – perhaps it’s “not as good as some of its competitors”, but it is widely seen as “good value”: in particular “the lunch-time meal deal” is a winner.

“Slightly off the beaten track but worth the trek” – Max Rocha’s “joyous” if “minimalist” Hackney canalside spot is “a fantastic venue, and a slightly quirky one given the charming but industrial view”. It inspires nothing but upbeat feedback for “French bistro food (e.g. Onglet & Chips) cooked to perfection”; and it does a “very good breakfast” too. “Busy, but they don’t hurry you”.

“A real event, with very complex and often-experimental food” – Gabriel & Patricia Waterhouse’s “temple of high cuisine” started out in his flat and, since 2021, has occupied this Scandi-esque, high-ceilinged, light-filled space near Regent’s Canal. Bookings are available for 1-6 diners and much of the seating is at communal tables, to which the ‘Long Form Menu’ at £155 per person is served at peak times (with cheaper options at quieter times). “There’s practically no choice on wine: either you have the wines provided or you have the non-alcoholic versions (same price)”. All reports agree this is “amazing” cooking – “you might not love it all, but you will certainly find it interesting!” – and there’s a general feeling that it is also “very good value for a great gastronomic experience”. As to the overall set-up, while the odd report says the seating is “a bit rag tag”, most say “don’t be put off by the supperclub set-up or shared tables”.

“Reliably excellent pizza” – “better than the other high street chains” – is what you’ll find at this growing Clapton-based operation, now with 12 sites from Balham and Crystal Palace in the south to Tufnell Park (which, as of summer 2024, is the latest to open). They’re perhaps “not smart as places to eat”, but that hardly matters – and the “toppings are interesting without being off-puttingly un-pizza-ish”.

“Brilliant combination of flavours” – from a menu of modern European small plates from chef Michael Robins – twinned with “interesting low-intervention wine from superstar sommelier and co-owner Honey Spencer” (who contributes to “some of the best service in town”), have won instant acclaim for this “lovely, relaxed Scandi-vibes” newcomer near Hackney’s hip Broadway Market. Press critics have raved and reports in our annual diners’ poll likewise view it as an “all-round knockout”: “a place to visit regularly” if you live out East, and if not “a bit out-of-the-way, but worth the trip!”.

These noodle bars are “great if you need a quick and satisfying lunch” – either in the original Soho branch, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, or its offshoots in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and Hackney. They specialise in udon noodles, which are fatter than ramen and served in a more refined and traditional Japanese dashi stock.

Vibrant Andean dishes – including distinctive ceviche, tiradito and causa starters (and with lots for vegans and veggies) – win a thumbs-up (if on limited feedback) for this September 2023 newcomer in Hackney’s hip Broadway Market, which marks the return to the capital of former Lima (Fitzrovia) head chef Robert Ortiz (who also launched the original Chakana in Birmingham four years ago).

“Having started as a pop-up these guys are going from strength to strength” – Freddie Sheen & Zac Whittle opened their first permanent home in Cambridge Heath in March 2022. “It’s one of the better options amongst the plethora of small-plates-and-wine joints to have opened all over east London (seemingly avoiding PR hype but nevertheless constantly packed, mainly from word of mouth)”. There is a tasting option (for £50-60 per person), but most meals are à la carte featuring “imaginative flavour combinations done to a consistent standard and at comparatively friendly prices”. Service is “friendly” and there’s a good “buzz” (although not everyone is sold on its recent expansion).

Classic old Hoxton boozer, formerly well known as a venue for gigs, reopening with a new oak bar and menu inspired by Portuguese 'tascas' – informal family-run restaurants – from chef Jamie Allan, from the team behind the Plimsoll and Tollington's in Finsbury Park.