Evening Standard
David Ellis enjoyed a “flawed” but highly atmospheric meal at Kiwi/Italian chef Dara Klein’s trattoria, now in permanent premises following an attention-grabbing residency at the Compton Arms in Islington, and the sort of loud, convivial, candle-lit place where guests tend to order another carafe of wine.
Not bound to any region, Klein “simply plates up what she fancies, the stuff that makes people feel good” – most notably, her compelling chicken Milanese, “a giant of a thing… Klein’s improvement is to top the crisply breadcrumbed meat with green apple, fennel and celery: the mix is sweet and fresh and slightly tart all together.”
Most of the cooked dishes, though, were over-salted – an “obvious mistake” David felt could easily be rectified – and the pricing was inconsistent. But, he insisted: “I’ll be back; I’d bring friends here. That’s the test, really, isn’t it?”
David Ellis - 2026-02-15
Drinks
Extras
