Grimston, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“A great find” in a “quiet enclave tucked away from the bustle of touristy York” – Adam & Lovaine Humphrey’s “friendly” modern venue offers “very high-quality food” that is “attractively plated, generous, neither over-fussy or daunting – and there’s no upselling of sides”. The “light and airy, minimalistic” dining room owes much to their previous restaurant in Australia, and divides opinion: some “love the dramatic stripe artwork relocated from Sydney”, while others find it “smart but slightly bland”. There is also a Little Arras bakery and café (hence the “yummy sourdough”).

This “deservedly venerable institution” is “a must for afternoon tea (lunch is good too) when you’re in York”, with “excellent cakes and pastries, extra sandwiches if your need them”, and “great old-fashioned service” – “we had to wait for a table on a Sunday afternoon in February, but it was well worth it”. Opened in 1936 as a spin-off from the 1919 Harrogate original, its classic interior was modelled on the ocean liner Queen Mary. Top Tip – “go for the full works in the upstairs room: wow, it’s in a class of its own”.

Just round the corner from the Minster, this “delightful bistro” on indie-shop-lined Gillygate is an “enjoyable and lively” sort of spot that parlays top-quality Yorkshire ingredients into its “interesting and well-executed menu” (and is open evenings-only or for Sunday lunch). NB – it’s very wee inside (“do book!”), but in summer months there’s a lovely garden backing onto the city walls.

Launched back in 1990 by Roux-trained Michael Hjort, who directs the York Food Festival, and wife Lucy, who takes care of FOH and wines, this British bistro is, say fans, “still the best place to eat in York for a sensibly priced meal”. As well as the à la carte menu (at three courses for £80 per person), there is also a “superb tasting menu with well thought-out wine flight expertly and amusingly described” if you want to push the boat out.

High-profile North Yorkshire chef Andrew Pern opened this city spinoff from his famous Star at Harome a dozen years ago, on an attractive site beside the River Ouse. These days, it attracts limited feedback and such as there is remains rather up-and-down.

“Such imaginatively constructed cooking” (“truly outstanding and innovative, and no duds which is unusual on a tasting menu!”) continues to generate high enthusiasm for the Banks family’s converted pub in the city centre, which is nowadays rivalled locally only by Skosh in terms of the number of reports it generates in our annual diners’ poll and is among our top-50 most commented-on venues in the country. “A very well constructed wine list to match the food” is also a feature that inspires praise. Even fans, though, can find it “overpriced”: “great food… but you have to pay for it”.

Andrew Pern, longtime owner of the acclaimed Star Inn at Harome, is the mastermind behind this superbly set restaurant, which was opened amid popping flashbulbs in April 2023 by King Charles III (as he’d shortly become) and then Queen-in-waiting Camilla. While the rangy outdoor terrace is an undoubted draw – offering the best views of the Minster in town – the inside (a former 1830s school turned upscale dining room) is also a delightful location in which to sample the old-fashioned British-style cooking, within reach of mortals thanks to regular deals including the current two-course Sunday lunch for £30 (or three courses for £35). Given the venue’s obvious tourist appeal and the glut of reports it spawned after opening, there was mystifyingly little feedback from reporters this year, but what there was remained positive.

“Have followed these guys from Le Cochon Aveugle – this is better!”, according to fans of Josh (chef) & Victoria (sommelier) Overington’s year-old restaurant with rooms, which they opened in mid 2023 in a picturesque converted pub in a small village about half an hour from their previous venture (in York). Fans say it’s “an extraordinary meal and stunning location, and absolutely no surprise to see them awarded a Michelin star in short five months”. Here they again serve an “excellent tasting menu” at £145 per person for 12-13 courses that’s “full of variety” and seasonality, and which delighted the majority in our annual diners’ poll who have made the trip thus far. It’s matched with an “excellent wine list, with mostly European and old-world wines, but fantastic variety and price variations”. On the downside, there have been a couple of reporters who found it either “overpriced (even if exceptional)”; or “good (but not as good as it‘s reputed to be)”. More commonly, though, reports suggest you “get there soon before they have a longer waiting list!” and interestingly, the property’s picturesque village location, rooms to stay over and characterful interior make this a romantic recommendation almost as often as it is a gastronomic one. Top Menu Tip – “Highlights were Charcoal Pie, filled with roe deer tartare topped with caviar, Scallop with sea urchin butter, a delicious almost treacley black pudding sauce with the pork, and the goats’ yogurt sorbet with rhubarb and treacle curd”.