Fitzrovia, International Restaurant Guide

“Affordable fine dining” – say fans – makes these Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf venues (from Nico Simeone’s Glasgow-based national chain) “good for date nights” and “real value-for-money”. “The tasting menu changes regularly, so it’s a different experience every time” – the formula being “no mystery: you get to taste small samples of delicious food all related to a specific, changing theme”. (“We’ve been twice this year – more themes have caught our eye without the window of opportunity to try them. It’s not filling, but a really enjoyable eat”). There is, though, an alternative jaundiced view, which is that they offer “style over substance – you’ll leave still feeling hungry and the venue is noisy, like being in a canteen”.

“An amazing procession of incredible chefs from all over the world passes through the kitchen” of this Fitzrovia showcase, which has hosted week-long residencies by culinary hot-shots from more than 50 countries in its 11 years. It’s “unmissable if you’re on a foodie tour of London” – you’ll find “always-spectacular food, washed down with great wines and served up by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable home team”. “Exciting new chefs” often road-test their menus here: Mexico’s Santiago Lastra was one, before he found fame with Kol. Founders Ed & Ollie Templeton also serve lunch at their on-site wine bar and snacks at their cocktail bar next door, No 28.