Tadcaster, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: “A great place for a civilised lunch” – so long as you don’t expect culinary fireworks. This impressive William & Mary country house on the outskirts of York is owned by the National Trust (and was once the residence of traveller and writer Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who introduced the practice of smallpox inoculation to Britain after witnessing it in Turkey).

“There’s nothing pretentious or exclusive about this delightful and relaxed restaurant”, run since 1990 by Michael Hjort and his wife Lucy (who also run the Chopping block) – “food and wine is what they are about and that is what they deliver” either for their fairly short à la carte menu (three courses for £85 per person in a fairly classical modern British style) or tasting menu (seven courses for £98 per person).

“Perfect from start to finish” say fans of the “stunning food and amazing wine list” at the Banks family’s converted pub in the city-centre, where “innovative preparation methods transform humble and not so humble ingredients to make everything into a delight”, choosing from a ‘Core’ menu at £95 per person, or a ‘Signature’ one for £145 per person. The Telegraph’s William Sitwell – a man who is hard to impress – agrees, saying in his May 2025 review his meal was “heavenly”. But while all reports in our annual diners’ poll do acclaim the cooking, the prices are increasingly becoming a major turn-off – sceptics feel that “the environment is underwhelming and doesn’t feel like the special occasion demanded by the bill”, or that “for all the hyperbole, the food is good-only, leaving poor value for money”.

High-profile North Yorkshire chef Andrew Pern opened this city spinoff from his famous Star at Harome a dozen years ago, on an attractive site beside the River Ouse. These days, it attracts limited feedback and such as there is remains rather up-and-down.

“This iconic tea room is in a league of its own” and “almost as charming as the Harrogate original” (it was built later, in 1936, with its interior modelled on the Queen Mary). It can be “a pity that it is overwhelmed by tourists with the resultant queues” but this is a trivial quibble – for practically all reporters it’s an “old favourite that never fails” and “it’s rare to be disappointed here”. Cosset yourself with afternoon tea, sandwiches, scones and patisseries galore, or there’s always the opportunity to eat here all day from the ‘Grande Breakfast’ onwards. “Always go there when in York and always delighted!”

2022 Review: The York branch of Richard Caring’s glossy Ivy chain generates most enthusiasm for its attractive interior, which makes it a pleasant spot to while away an hour or two – including over afternoon tea – especially if you can nab a table by the full-length windows (difficult to guarantee, since tables are allocated on arrival).

The Mannion clan first opened this venue as a greengrocers’ three decades ago; its current incarnation is as a “charming café-deli that consistently delivers on quality, atmosphere and indulgence” (be it Full English breakfasts or pork belly sandwiches), and offers “very efficient and friendly” service to boot. There’s also a sibling in Helmsley (the Easingwold spin-off having closed in summer 2025).

A popular little bistro around the corner from the Minster (with views from its garden at the back) that fans claim “would be worthy of awards if it had more than 8 tables and tablecloths”. In business since 2002, “if anything it improves”: last year, Ian Pragnell, son of co-founder and self-taught chef Chris, joined the team to add lunchtime openings on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Top Menu Tip – “excellent goat’s cheese and tuna starters, lamb and pork main courses”.

Limited but all positive feedback this year on Adam & Lovaine Humphrey’s bright dining room, which bills itself as ‘Delicious, Different & Central’ and whose somewhat eclectic menu-style has been imported from their original ‘Arras’ (which was in Sydney, Australia). In the evening, there’s a five-course menu for £90 per person – at lunch and pre-theatre shorter, cheaper options are available.

2024 Review: Attached to a luxurious spa hotel, this modern brasserie is open all day (with other options in the hotel being the more ambitious Horto, or afternoon tea in the Conservatory). One fan notes it as a good place for a relaxed business meal, but there is also the odd concern that its “good ambience can be let down by average results at excessive prices”.

2022 Review: This “lovely hotel” is so proud of its own produce that it named its main restaurant Horto, Latin for kitchen garden, and charged young head chef Callum Bowmer (who arrived for two weeks’ work experience in 2010 and never left) with the task of creating showcase menus from it. The resulting meals are “really enjoyable”.

A lot of business has been done over “lovely food, very well served” at this Leeds institution – a classic French restaurant that’s “been going forever” (well, since 1991 – “I don’t think the menu has changed but it’s really nice food for a business lunch or dinner”). Founded by restaurateur Robert Chamberlain and executive chef Andrew Carter, who still run the show, it occupies a basement in the city’s financial district. Top Tip – the heavyweight wine list runs to 70 pages.

A report of “the best meal of the last year” is indicative of the quality of the food at this modern canalside venture in the city centre, which originally opened five years ago at Kirkgate Market. Chef Mark Owens, who trained at Le Gavroche and was head chef at the Box Tree, sends out a souped-up gastropub menu featuring the likes of beef & oyster sausages. Founder Liz Cottam closed her flagship restaurant, Home, last year.

“A Yorkshire institution” that’s “not to be missed!” – These famous tea rooms owe their existence to Swiss founder Frederick Belmont, who opened them in 1919 and his family now also operate at four other locations across North Yorkshire. “A great, old school and classic experience” – they are “everyone’s favourite” and afternoon tea is “a real occasion” that’s “well worth queuing for”. Top Menu Tips – “scrumptious fat rascals” (a kind of Yorkshire scone).