Canterbury, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2018 Review: A family-run establishment, stumbling distance from cathedral and theatre, that “does what it does very well” – in particular straightforward British cooking.

Dev Biswal’s roomy converted pub continues to do a swift trade in “Indian cuisine with a twist” (including trademark pyramid-shaped dosa). As of October 2019, Biswal has mooted closing his Sussex branch, The Devil in Rye, to focus on a new Margate spin-off, opened in 2018, as well as here in Canterbury, where he is reportedly seeking out a second venue for more casual dining.

2019 Review: “The only place in Canterbury where you can eat an approximation of fine dining” – i.e. “delicate and flavoursome” dishes (“classics with a modern twist”) and set lunches, all “at an affordable price”.

Four new owners have taken over this rural Kent pub, including chef Justin Mallett from El Portalon in Ibiza.