Harden's survey result
Summary
“As always the food at the Sportsman is stellar” but as always it is the fact that it’s “served in a relaxed environment” which “makes a visit unforgettable” to Stephen Harris’s “splendid” hostelry which “has been modernised but still has the ambience of a pub”: a “diner’s delight” situated “by the Thames Estuary on an ancient saltmarsh and true to its location”. But while “the atmosphere is informal, the cuisine is totally serious”, “to the highest of standards” and at very “fair prices”. “The wine list, carefully chosen by the host, is classic, eclectic and great value too”, so, not unsurprisingly, it “gets very booked up” and is nowadays one of the top-10 most commented-on venues outside London in our annual diners’ poll. The normal menu is a five-courser, nowadays for £85 per person, although there is a three-course mid-week lunch for £55 per person served Tuesday-Thursday. Not sure you have sufficient appetite? – “the ideal thing to do is take a good walk along the beach beforehand to get the appetite brimming with anticipation!” Top Menu Tip – “Local fish is obviously a must” – “served flavoured with seaweed butter or caviar” – as are the “Whitstable oysters or marsh-fed lamb presented with flair”. “Fruit and vegetables often come from the pub’s own garden”.
Summary
“Bravo!” – “Everything always seems to work so well at Stephen Harris’s exceptionally popular spot in the north Kent marshes”. It’s one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll and also one of the best liked, inspiring nothing but the most enthusiastic comments from diners. “The ideal thing to do is take a good walk along the beach beforehand to get the appetite brimming with anticipation”. Thereafter, “it’s the combination of relaxed atmosphere and stellar cooking that makes for an unforgettable visit”. It helps that “nowhere in London can get close to the sort of quality vs price ratio here”, even though there’s no longer an à la carte option and the only choice now is the “memorable five-course tasting menu” for “£80 per person”: “food that’s exquisite and beautifully presented, not at all ostentatious”. “You really feel that everything is thoughtfully and lovingly prepared and the service is always with a smile”. “The rooms are pretty excellent too”. Top Menu Top – “superb local produce – Whitstable oysters, saltmarsh lamb, seaweed buttered slip sole – are cleverly accompanied by delicacies from further afield, such as Lobster, Old Winchester cheese, or Avruga Caviar. The wine list, personally selected by the host, is composed of classic quality wines, so generously priced, they constitute the best quality to value ratio I have seen in a British restaurant”. (“It’s been my favourite restaurant anywhere in the UK, and even further afield, for the past 20 years and I feel blessed that it is only a few miles along the coast from where I live”).
Summary
“Pretty much my idea of gastronomic heaven”: Stephen Harris’s “tricky-to-get-to old-looking pub” represents “a friendly and pleasurable approximation of perfection” for its enormous fan club and – as one of the top-5 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll – is viewed by many as “simply the best pub-orientated restaurant in the UK”. Set out on the salt marshes by the Thames just outside Whitstable, “don’t be fooled by the external décor” (which makes it look like any old seaside pub). Inside, it “still retains its original charm” and its unforced style makes it “a place to return to on a regular basis”. “The local produce mirrors its estuary-side position”, with each “simple but magnificent” component of the five-course menu “representing the best of the locality at that time of year”. “The cooking itself is a revelation” with “prodigious attention to flavour” and the most often-cited offerings including excellent fish, oysters and lamb (including, of course, the signature slip soles). “The wine list reflects the tastes of the Patron who only lists wines that he would choose to drink himself”. “Many pilgrims make the journey but you have to book months in advance”. “A joy to visit before or, preferably, after a bracing walk on the beach” (and with it being “just a short step to their delightful self-catering cabins, what could be more romantic?)”
Summary
“Yes, it is a long drive and the surroundings are simple, but the food makes the journey worthwhile…” – Stephen Harris’s “unpretentious and cherished” estuary-side destination set on the marshes near Whitstable “looks just like an old seaside pub from the outside” but is one of the most famous eateries in the country (and in the top-10 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll). It can seem “a bizarre location”, but “the situation of the pub is very evocative which helps give the place its charm” and – however you view it – it’s so popular “you must book way ahead to secure a table”. “The decor may be ‘old pub’ but the food is fine dining” with “so much taste on the plate”. Given the locale, “oysters are always a must!” and the signature slip soles are star features on an “interesting” menu whose “fabulous seafood” and salt-marsh lamb showcase the local larder: “excellent ingredients all served with integrity and expertise”. “A superb, generously priced wine list completes a sublime gastronomic experience.” To complete the trip, there’s “nothing better than a good walk on the beach”. Or, alternatively, you can now stay and many of the most enthusiastic reports this year are from those who “chose to stay in one of their wildflower meadow cabins – charming and very comfortable, with everything you need to make yourself a great breakfast (they have little kitchens). Highly recommended”.
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at The Sportsman?
Faversham Road, Seasalter, CT5 4BP
Restaurant details
The Sportsman Restaurant Diner Reviews
"The food is just as good as it has always been.. with wines and service to match."
"Lovely relaxed atmosphere & smiling service. Dishes are not exciting . adventurous or imaginative but consist of local produce, oysters , lamb, slip sole cooked to perfection. Quality wines at a good price.Meal is excellent value at £85 for 4 courses including bread, amuse bouches & a pre dessert."
"Great and interesting food, served very well with helpful staff"
Prices
| Wine per bottle | £23.95 |
| Filter Coffee | £4.00 |
| Service | 10.00% |
Faversham Road, Seasalter, CT5 4BP
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑1:45 pm, 6:30 pm‑8:30 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑1:45 pm, 6:30 pm‑8:30 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑1:45 pm, 6:30 pm‑8:30 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑1:45 pm, 6:30 pm‑8:30 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑1:45 pm, 6:30 pm‑8:30 pm |
| Sunday | 12:30 pm‑2:45 pm9 pm |
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