Bankside, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: The 14th floor rooftop of the new Hoxton hotel – this time confusingly located in Southwark, despite the name – is home to a fish and seafood restaurant from the team behind Brooklyn’s Maison Premiere. It opened in September 2019, with a raw bar, a wide range of oysters – and ‘the fresh flavours of southern Europe’. Oh, and great views.

2021 Review: Views of the Thames and a chic interior combine to create a lovely setting for this well-groomed South Bank destination: on the ground floor of a swish hotel near Blackfriars Bridge. It escaped the harsh criticisms of past years in the most recent survey feedback: in particular its “super buffet brunch” with bottomless Prosecco is a top feature.

2021 Review: The cut-price surf ’n’ turf at this “fun, relaxed and reliable” operation “never fails” – “have a lobster roll as a starter, then a burger as a main”. Under the same ownership as the Goodman steakhouses, the London-based chain has consolidated to nine domestic branches plus the Smack lobster roll delivery-only spinoff, while expanding internationally in the US, Middle East and southeast Asia.

2021 Review: “The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.

2021 Review: “It feels as if one has been decanted into the 1920s but I never fail to enjoy my visits!” – “This unique City institution has a charm and authenticity that can’t be imitated” – a “joyous throwback” (founded, on a different site, in 1830) which offers “simple, well-executed British seafood classics” (followed by steamed puddings) at lunchtimes only, to a largely besuited crowd. The “eclectic seating arrangements” can “be a surprise to newbies” – you either perch at “makeshift bar-tops”, or cram into the rear dining room where “service is hindered by the lack of room, but everyone mucks in and plates get passed around”. “The waiters are nearly as old as the building, but that just adds to its appeal…”. “Black Velvet is served in pewter tankards, and a ‘bill of fare’ serves instead of a menu”. The experience comes at “ridiculous prices”, but most reckon they’re worth paying… “and the place does now take cards”.

2021 Review: “A wonderful range of fresh fish is cooked to order” at this “buzzing”, glass-fronted venue just by Borough Market. “It gets it right much more often than it gets it wrong” nowadays and is “well worth a visit”.

2021 Review: “Superb fish – not overcooked – in generous portions” is the USP at this Borough Market café, where you can “sit outside for a lovely lunch”. Service came under fire from several reporters this year: “are they becoming a little slapdash?”