Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 11 August 2019.  Pilgrim, Liverpool Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times had very little time for the marketing “tripe” surrounding the new Duke Street Market flagship restaurant she visited in Liverpool – one of the many new additions to the UK’s food scene, […]

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Harden’s weekly round-up of the restaurant critics’ reviews, from the week ending 4 August 2019. Little French, Bristol Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times was in Bristol checking out the brand-new (and first solo) venture from Freddy Bird (formerly of the city’s Lido restaurant) – with a challenge, no less: “there are four of us […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 28 July 2019.  Heritage, London W1 Jay Rayner for The Observer made some sweeping generalisations about Switzerland to start his review (“it’s expensive, tooth-achingly polite, efficient and profoundly committed to dairy fats”) but only to point out that Heritage manages just three out […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 14 July 2019.  The Newell, Dorset Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times celebrates the restaurants she calls “quietly wonderful” – not the “flashy and splashy and showy and spendy” places chased down (and sometimes closed down) by food critics and hordes of Insta-tourists, […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 7 July 2019.  Mana, Manchester From the moment the first of 16 courses arrived, Marina O’Loughlin of The Sunday Times was “blown away” by Simon Martin’s cooking at Mana. He cooked at Noma for several years (unlike so many chefs, which, as Marina […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 30 June 2019. Tayer + Elementary, London EC1 Jimi Famuwera for The Evening Standard is on a roll; last week he discovered Gezillig, and this week he was in east London at the the new split personality venue from celebrated mixologists Alex Kratena […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ roamings, from the week ending 23 June 2019. Darby’s, London SW11 Grace Dent for The Guardian was the first critic to beat a path to Battersea to sample “Robin and Sarah Gill’s new project” near the peculiarly placed new American embassy at Vauxhall (“a gargantuan, purpose-built, space-age fortress… […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 16 June 2019.  Hjem, Northumberland Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times relies on her “spidey sense” to truffle out fabulous new restaurants to tell us about, and this time that “tingling in the fingertip” was spot on. And so it was off to […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 June 2019.  AngloThai at Counter Culture, London SW4 “It’s testament to how much I want to eat Chantarasak’s food that I’ll schlep down here to this ghetto of Zara-clad Freddies and Livvys and sit on a petrol-fumed pavement table watching an unending […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics from the week ending 2 June 2019. The Sea, The Sea, London SW3 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times has “stumbled across the living definition of the word “precious”: a seafood restaurant, a fishmonger and a champagne bar in — where else? — Chelsea”. From the people behind […]

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