Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 16 February 2020. Muse, London SW1 Grace Dent for The Guardian has declared it early this year: “I’ve found my restaurant of the year.” Not all of the critics who have reviewed Muse so far have enjoyed it this […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 18 August 2019. Flor, London SE1 Jimi Famuwera for The Evening Standard found Southwark newcomer Flor to be “lightly challenging” and “utterly astonishing”, with food that “hits a sweet spot between the unexpected and the familiar… between thoughtful, modern refinement and messy, chin-dripping joy”. […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 28 July 2019. Heritage, London W1 Jay Rayner for The Observer made some sweeping generalisations about Switzerland to start his review (“it’s expensive, tooth-achingly polite, efficient and profoundly committed to dairy fats”) but only to point out that Heritage manages just three out […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 21 July 2019. The Kensington Arms, Bristol Grace Dent for The Guardian is “acutely aware that I’m the last face any kitchen brigade wants to see over a long bank holiday weekend” but she’d heard great things about the “dependably brilliant Sunday lunch” […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 16 June 2019. Hjem, Northumberland Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times relies on her “spidey sense” to truffle out fabulous new restaurants to tell us about, and this time that “tingling in the fingertip” was spot on. And so it was off to […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics from the week ending 2 June 2019. The Sea, The Sea, London SW3 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times has “stumbled across the living definition of the word “precious”: a seafood restaurant, a fishmonger and a champagne bar in — where else? — Chelsea”. From the people behind […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 12 May 2019. Scully, London SW1 Jay Rayner for The Observer was back in London this week after reviewing several remarkably low-priced restaurants across the UK. Scully is in direct contrast to those places – “the only way you can get out of […]