In St Paul’s crypt, an airy and relaxed English restaurant that realises its simple and unpretentious aims well.

The undercroft of St Paul’s has recently received a major make-over. Part of the vast space is now given over to a relatively intimately-scaled but lofty two-level dining room. It turns out to be the first public-facing venture of City catering firm Harbour & Jones, who have made a commendable start.

The aim is certain type of National Trust Englishness, but without the tweeness. The food is simple – in our case, salmon and leek terrine, followed by roast pollock with samphire, and with an ice cream and sponge pudding – and prices are reasonable. Our meal for one came to just over £30, including a glass of wine (and £2.50 for a small plate of bread, which was the only jarring note). The food was all good, if with a slight tendency to blandness.

Service is most solicitous in manner, and the style is sometimes quite upmarket – coffee comes in nicely old-fashioned silverware, with a rather good ginger biscuit thrown in.

This is an ideal place, then, to take a great aunt, or a civilised oasis for those wanting to escape Mammon, in the very heart of the City. Adjacent, there is a spacious and elegant cafeteria, which looks as if it offers a superior tourist experience.

Enter by the doorway in the left-hand side wall, off the Churchyard.

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