The Restaurant at St Paul’s EC4
REVIEWS, July 21, 2009
Overall Value
out of 5
  • Food
  • Service
  • Ambience
The Restaurant at St Paul’s, St Paul’s Cathedral, St Paul’s Churchyard, London, EC4M 8AD

In St Paul’s crypt, an airy and relaxed English restaurant that realises its simple and unpretentious aims well.

The undercroft of St Paul’s has recently received a major make-over. Part of the vast space is now given over to a relatively intimately-scaled but lofty two-level dining room. It turns out to be the first public-facing venture of City catering firm Harbour & Jones, who have made a commendable start.

The aim is certain type of National Trust Englishness, but without the tweeness. The food is simple – in our case, salmon and leek terrine, followed by roast pollock with samphire, and with an ice cream and sponge pudding – and prices are reasonable. Our meal for one came to just over £30, including a glass of wine (and £2.50 for a small plate of bread, which was the only jarring note). The food was all good, if with a slight tendency to blandness.

Service is most solicitous in manner, and the style is sometimes quite upmarket – coffee comes in nicely old-fashioned silverware, with a rather good ginger biscuit thrown in.

This is an ideal place, then, to take a great aunt, or a civilised oasis for those wanting to escape Mammon, in the very heart of the City. Adjacent, there is a spacious and elegant cafeteria, which looks as if it offers a superior tourist experience.

Enter by the doorway in the left-hand side wall, off the Churchyard.

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