Gallery Mess SW3
REVIEWS, August 21, 2009
Overall Value
2.5
out of 5
Food 
Service 
Ambience 
2.5
£62
  • Food
  • Service
  • Ambience
Gallery Mess, Saatchi Gallery, Duke of Yorks HQ, Kings Road, London, SW3 4RY

Handy for Sloane Square, a useful modern café/bistro, with quite a nice gallery attached; the cooking has no great ambition, but standards overall are above the cultural-centre norm.

Have no fear: you do not need to be in any sort of cultural mood to enjoy this convenient new café/bistro near Sloane Square. In fact, if you enter directly from the shopping mall opposite Peter Jones you can ignore the cultural facility totally.

If you went in that way, you’d pass Manicomio, which offers a very similar package. Both establishments are in an attractive clean-lined modern style, for example, and both offer a good number of al fresco tables; the newcomer, with a view over the big lawn, has the more tranquil location. Neither operation feels hugely individual – probably inevitable, given the weight of local shopping footfall.

The Mess’s food turns out to be competent modern brasserie stuff, such as asparagus and (nicely timed) egg salad, or duck confit and green beans. Only towards the end of the meal was any sort of star quality on display. A ‘Knickerbocker’ may have turned out to be no sort of Glory at all, but it was a very good trifle indeed.

Bread and coffee were decent, and – though we didn’t taste it – the viennoisserie on offer looked pretty good too, so this might well make quite a good start-the-day, lunch or tea destination. For breakfast, a Full English is also available.

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