Spruced-up and relaunched in spring 2008, this classic Gallic café/bistro retains its charms as a definitive heart-of-Soho rendezvous.

No one ever went to Café Bohème for the food, and that’s unlikely to change. That’s not to say that there’s anything wrong with the straightforward Gallic nosh, and our quick re-inspection meal – after the handsome major refurbishment of recent months – included a perfectly competent soup, rather tasteless bead, a satisfying but oversalted salad, a good crème brûlée and a decent espresso.

It’s the sheer convenience of the place though, its bubbly atmosphere, and its reasonable prices, which look set to ensure that it retains its perennial all-hours popularity. Service on our visit was notably pleasant too.

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