Musselburgh, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

A Leith institution, set in a 17th-century watchtower (and with an offshoot in the city centre) – this stalwart venue “has been around for years, and it’s superb”, with “great fresh fish simply cooked but served with style and gusto” (for instance, “enjoyable crab burger”) – “a go-to for business lunches (always open, always reliable)”. Top Menu Tip – “try the queenie scallops; they’re stunning”.

2024 Review: With its imposing facade, stained glass, corniced ceilings, polished wood and brass, we maintain a listing for this busy Victorian institution (est. 1863 and nowadays run by the Metropolitan Pub Company) as much as a cultural experience as it is a culinary one. Seafood dishes and platters are the best choices here.

“Prime cuts of matured beef served in striking surroundings with a carefully curated wine list, which includes some rarities albeit at a premium price” wins similarly enthusiastic feedback for this Scots outpost of the famous chain, which inhabits the former National Bank of Scotland’s Banking Hall – the elegant main public space of this Grade A listed building. Those familiar with the brand accept the fact that it’s “somewhat expensive” is the trade-off you accept to partake of the experience. Top Tip – for value seekers, the Monday Wine Club does offer BYOB for £5 corkage.

2023 Review: “Like a Gallic hug”, chef-patron Fred Berkmiller’s “properly sourced old-school French cuisine” comes packaged with “Gallic good humour, impeccable service and quirky decoration in this wonderfully authentic restaurant”, “now with new wine bar underneath”. Sadly, its nearby sibling L’Escargot Blanc closed down last year after 18 years.

“You won’t go wrong” at this “always-reliable fish restaurant in the heart of the New Town”, with “large windows, an open-plan layout, small bar, warm and efficient service, and skilled kitchen, all at a reasonable price”. Top Menu Tips – “Tempura King Prawns, Halibut in Parsley Sauce, good curried fish, fishcakes and creme brûlée”.

This “pretty little fish restaurant tucked away overlooking the expanse of the Meadows in south Edinburgh” has won widespread praise for its “deft and delicious cooking”. Chef-patron Phil White and his FOH partner Rachel Chisholm followed up by opening all-day spot Margot a few doors away in March 2024 – hailed by critic Chitra Ramaswamy of The Times as ‘the hippest café in the city’. Top Menu Tip – “the stand-out octopus”.

It’s “worth a ride on the tram” (to the terminus of the Edinburgh line, which is a short walk away) to get to this dockside outfit in a Victorian building, which was launched in 2018 by fancy seafood haunt Ondine, of the nearby capital, and Welch Fishmongers, who supply it. It’s a “very busy” place with “limited tables” in the tiled dining room and on the outdoor terrace: one diner for whom “the takeaway was the only possibility” reports that “it was worth the long queue” for the “excellent fish and chips” (as against the fancier fare in the dining room) even in the winter chill.

2023 Review: “A seafood restaurant that never fails to please, with constantly changing menus that reflect what is available seasonally”. That’s the take on this small (24 covers) family-run fish restaurant and ‘seasonal hotel’ which sits on Hawkcraig point, with views of Edinburgh and the islands of the Forth. “The owners really do pull out all the stops to give a nice dining experience. Great for that special occasion!”

“Just ridiculously delicious food… the snacks alone are a joy” – Stuart Ralston took over the site that was previously 21212 to launch this highly regarded two-year-old, which occupies a “beautiful and simple dining room” on Royal Terrace. The focus is on Scotland’s finest fish and seafood, served (at dinner) as part of a 10-course menu for £165 per person praised in feedback for its “great respect for ingredients and fantastic execution”. Top Menu Tips – “Sample course from a lunch in January – a dry-aged scallop with walnut and razor clam. All the depth, flavour and texture of scallop; walnut crunch; properly tender and edible razor clam (frequently not the case!). Plus a little side tart made from the scallop roe. Gorgeous”.

This two-year-old in the New Town from Dean Banks of the nearby Pompadour – “a chef who puts thought and local produce into the menu” – comprises a first-floor fish and seafood restaurant above a wine and cocktail bar. The “well-cooked and presented fish and seafood” would have attracted higher ratings but for one or two up-and-down experiences. Top Menu Tip – “the Arbroath smokie tart with seaweed crumpet was particularly good”.