Aldwych, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“Simply cooked fresh fish (often all you want)” is the USP at this trio of fishmonger/restaurants that offer “extremely reasonable prices for the quality” in prime central locations: off Piccadilly Circus, in Covent Garden and on Marylebone High Street. “The cooking does what it should do – the fish is the star of the show, delivered daily from Cornwall and really well executed”; and “they have specials depending on that day’s catch listed on a blackboard”. It’s “let down a little by staff that need more training to improve both the service and the ambience”.

“Forget hopping on a budget flight to the famous Cal Pep in Barcelona…” – the original inspiration for the Hart Bros’ genius small group of tapas pitstops – “… here in London you can sit at the counter, with the fun of watching mouthwatering tapas being prepared in front of you, so delivered piping hot (and best is the unbeatable fresh fish cooked ‘a la plancha’)”. “From the greeting to the explanations of the dishes, service is knowledgeable and caring”; there’s “a good choice of Spanish wines and sherries”; and the “superb” overall formula has made them one of the most popular destinations in our annual diners’ poll for almost 20 years now, even if the feeling has grown that “merely a small selection of dishes can incur eyewatering bills”. Top Tips – “the best atmosphere is had eating perched on a stool at the counter, but the Adelaide Street branch does have comfortable table seating downstairs”. On the Menu – “specific praise for the mojama”; “especially lovely prawn stuffed tortilla, seabream and the crisp aubergine with honey”; “tasty rabbit paella”; “squid croquetas are a perfect combo – crunchy on the outside, unctuous within”. “Shout out for the basics: lovely oils, bread etc…”

“Forget hopping on a budget flight to the famous Cal Pep in Barcelona…” – the original inspiration for the Hart Bros’ genius small group of tapas pitstops – “… here in London you can sit at the counter, with the fun of watching mouthwatering tapas being prepared in front of you, so delivered piping hot (and best is the unbeatable fresh fish cooked ‘a la plancha’)”. “From the greeting to the explanations of the dishes, service is knowledgeable and caring”; there’s “a good choice of Spanish wines and sherries”; and the “superb” overall formula has made them one of the most popular destinations in our annual diners’ poll for almost 20 years now, even if the feeling has grown that “merely a small selection of dishes can incur eyewatering bills”. Top Tips – “the best atmosphere is had eating perched on a stool at the counter, but the Adelaide Street branch does have comfortable table seating downstairs”. On the Menu – “specific praise for the mojama”; “especially lovely prawn stuffed tortilla, seabream and the crisp aubergine with honey”; “tasty rabbit paella”; “squid croquetas are a perfect combo – crunchy on the outside, unctuous within”. “Shout out for the basics: lovely oils, bread etc…”

“Some tables afford a view of the Thames, while there is some real dining theatre” at the Savoy’s elegant dining room, whose history in the last 20 years has seen many re-treads under differing names (most recently Kaspar’s). Now back under its old moniker but run by Gordon Ramsay, it divides opinion, with some reporters feeling the “very solid” fish and seafood cooking is let down by a space “very much like a hotel breakfast room”, while others see a “very nice room” let down by “unimaginative food at fancy prices”… so a consensus of sorts! For a traditional, grand family meal or business – including breakfast – it has its fans; to others it’s just too uneventful at the five-star prices.

“Top-class fish prepared well” makes this Covent Garden seafood bar “a welcome oasis in this part of London” and disproportionately popular for its modest size. Happy fans also note that “service is generally prompt and friendly”. On the debit side, the interior can feel “cramped and workaday”, and one or more regulars reckon its performance generally has been a little “chaotic” in recent times (causing a dip in the ratings). Top Menu Tip – “the lunchtime special of fish pie with a glass of house wine for £20 is a steal, particularly in these surroundings”.

“Still a cut above its neighbours in Covent Garden” – “this buzzing little place” is brilliantly pitched for its location and one of the most popular venues for seafood in our annual diners’ poll. It serves “spankingly fresh oysters, terrific scallops” and “beautiful fish accurately done and sometimes interestingly too” – all “without fuss” and accompanied by “reasonably priced wines” (it’s from the team behind 10 Cases wine bar across the road). Top Tip – “sit outside if weather permits; inside can be a tight fit”.

USDA prime dry-aged steak – “their hanging tomahawk with dripping fat is a real experience” – is the whole point of a visit to this London outpost of a classic NYC steakhouse group, in the “convenient” and appropriately grand and Manhattan-esque setting of the 1930s Adelphi Building, just off the Strand. But while the interior is “stylish and classy” and the steaks impeccable, this is ultimately “very basic food” that is “far too overpriced” to achieve a better rating.

Opposite the Savoy Hotel across the traffic of The Strand, this new Italian seafood specialist from the team behind Bocconcino in Mayfair and Soho offers a fair amount of affordable luxury in the West End, as advertised by its centrepiece display of fish on an ice counter. Seafood platters are about £30, a whole salt-baked fish for two about £60, but there is also a range of pizzas sub-£20 alongside numerous pasta and meat dishes. No reports as yet in our annual diners’ poll, nor newspaper reviews, but the online buzz surrounding it suggests it serves its purpose.