Wallingford Restaurant Guide

“A lovely setting on the river” (the stretch of the Thames commemorated in ‘Wind of the Willows’, and best admired from the terrace) elevates a visit to this former boathouse, last used for the ferry in 1967. Happily, the “charming modern interior still retains some of the character of this long-established venue”, despite a more pub-like refurb in recent years, and there was praise this year for some “tasty and filling” cuisine (and at a “very reasonable” price tag too).

This “fabulous” and “colourful” Chilterns gastroboozer “consistently delivers” – even well into its fourth decade in business. “Look out for the music nights” combining “imaginative pub food” with “live performances by artists far beyond what you’d expect from a rural pub” – but then again, this isn’t just any pub: it’s famously run by chef-proprietor Paul Clerehugh (ex-of glam rockers Sweet), and Kate Winslet hosted her wedding breakfast here.

“Definitely a good choice if you’re in the area” – i.e. just five miles from the dreaming spires of Oxford – this “very comfortable country pub” boasts one of the best gardens in these parts and is particularly appealing come summer. Some feel the menu is “limited” and “relatively expensive”, albeit “generally good with some unusual dishes”, much local sourcing, and a fair selection of veggie-friendly options.

In summer 2023, citing the need to ‘slow down’, TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson bowed out from his Oxfordshire gastropub after nearly two decades at the helm (the latter part of which was overshadowed by controversies relating to its anti-vaxxer stance, and, more recently, a worrying hygiene rating). While David Brown, who heads up Marlow’s Royal Oak has stepped into AWT’s shoes (the latter will remain on hand as a consultant), head chef Jamie Webber remains from the previous line-up, which should ensure continuity when it comes to the popular venue’s “generous” and “well-cooked” pub grub.

“Enhanced by a pre-prandial stroll around the wonderful gardens”, a visit to Raymond Blanc’s “superlative” Oxfordshire property (actually he’s sold most of his stake to LVMH nowadays) is one of the biggest culinary treats in the country. Raymond is celebrating his 40th year in this picture-book 15th-century manor in a quiet corner of south Oxfordshire: one of the top-5 most commented-on venues outside London in our annual diners’ poll, it scored particularly strongly this year – the first full year in which head chef Luke Selby has had a full 12 months at the stoves in the lead-up. “Yes, the prices are eye-watering” – that’s noted every year – but practically all reporters this year feel “it’s worth the money” given its “culinary excellence”. “It is made even more special by the team: friendly, helpful and proud to be part of the Manoir experience”. “After a warm welcome, you are guided to the lounge for a drink and the menu before going to the table. Then on to the dining room before adjourning back to the lounge for coffee and petit fours”. The cuisine itself is “classical with flair”: you can eat a three-course à la carte meal for £205 per person, or a seven-course menu for £245 per person. “The finishing touches are what makes dining here such a pleasure” and those who stay over feel particularly well looked-after. (“The whole experience was simply sublime and rounded off our celebrations incredibly well. How do we celebrate our next anniversary so well?”).

In November 2022, after 15 years at the helm, Stephen Luscombe dramatically handed over the reins of this pretty former pub with a foodie reputation to local boy Ben Watson (whose CV includes the acclaimed Core by Clare Smyth) and Priya Arora-Watson (a former FOH at London’s famed Gymkhana). By all accounts there is “little to suggest any adverse change” now it‘s running under an abridged name – and indeed, for fans, the local, seasonal food is “even better” now, with the “brilliant set menu” (£23 per person for two courses, £28 per person for three) representing very “good value given that prices everywhere have gone stratospheric”.

“Excellent pub with rooms with a superb restaurant, serving delicious food” that “shows influences from the Mediterranean to the Middle East and beyond”. “They’re the bunch who have taken over the nearby Pot Kiln gastropub, so we were bumped into the hotel… but it was a pleasant bump – great food, reasonably priced and welcoming service/surroundings”.

This romantic, high-end dining room has brought a slice of Italy to Henley’s waterside since the mid-1990s; “the space is not large, but the extensive use of mirrors makes it feel airy” while the crowd-pleasing menu is always “reliably good”. Given its popularity, it can get “very noisy” – particularly during the local Regatta, which lends its name to one of their many specials (the latter “significantly more expensive than the standard menu offerings”, which are a bargain).

“An excellent and attentive spot by the river with a fantastic brunch in the morning sun”, whose all-day menu is produced by a small team run by owners Shaun & Gemma Dickens. “I came here for brunch ahead of my nephew‘s wedding and enjoyed it so much I returned the following day!” Top Menu Tip – “recommend the full English and the smashed avocado with poached egg on sourdough toast”.

Reopened in June 2024 (after our diners’ poll had concluded), this well-known inn (Kate Middleton’s favourite back in the day) has been relaunched under new management and after a £750,000 refit with seven rooms for accommodation. Gone are the days of its traditional British menu: Nick Galer and his team now present Basque-influenced dishes, including tapas and cured meats, and the interior has been significantly changed, incorporating a charcoal-fired grill at the centre of a big open kitchen. There’s still a separate bar and big outside area; and they still run their popular weekly pizza nights (now on Sundays) when they fire up the big oven in the garden.

This “big old pub with a jolly, slightly bohemian atmosphere” is a well-known “gastro-pub (with the emphasis on gastro)”. It achieves solid and still-plentiful support in our annual diners’ poll, despite a feeling that “the food falls well short of the standards at its London siblings, Anchor & Hope and Canton Arms”. Top Menu Tip – “the suet crust steak-and-ale pie to share is a lovely, lovely thing”.

This converted chemist’s shop from the Oli’s Thai team remains a big local favourite, inspiring lots of positive feedback from a sizeable Oxford-based fan base. Take a seat at the popular zinc counter, or profit from the “great bar” next door, offering cocktails and Spanish wines. NB – it’s only “open during the latter part of the week (Thu-Sun) and reservations fill fast”, so this isn’t the place to rock up unannounced.

The “beautifully cooked fish” is “great value” at this popular restaurant “just across Magdalen Bridge, so very handy for the city centre”. Fish-phobes have plenty of options, too, with burger, vegan and kids’ menus on offer. Top Menu Tip – “the Fritto Misto is exceptional, and a family favourite”.