Southbank, Mexican Restaurant Guide

“For a large chain, they still do pretty much unbeatable Mexican fusion fare”, say fans of these “busy and atmospheric” street-food cafés, now with 11 London branches and three others around the UK. That said, there are also some niggles in feedback; and the sentiment is widespread that – though “still enjoyable” – the food can seem “a little mass-produced”. Even so, practically all diners still consider them “dependable for a quick, cheap ’n’ cheerful bite”. Top Tip – the new, 150-cover Paddington branch is their first opening in six years and puts a focus on sustainability and a menu including some larger sharing plates (e.g. grilled Achiote Seabass, Lamb Barbacoa and Chimichurri Cauliflower).

“The tacos are still loaded and delicious and the frozen margaritas are exceptional” at the Hart Bros’ “lively” Latino haunts: particularly the original SE1 branch – a “fabulous Mexican street food venue under the arches in Borough Market”. (The newer Soho branch with its basement ‘Mezcaleria Colmillo’ bar inspires good marks but much less feedback). In April 2024, they launched a new, 90-cover site in Battersea Power Station, with adjoining 60-cover, open-all-year, outdoor riverside terrace.

Well-travelled chef Nick Fitzgerald has worked in Mexico City restaurant Pujol, and his street-food stand in Borough Market serves some of the “best tacos in London”. Now daytimes-only, following the closure of the evening restaurant.

“The tacos are still loaded and delicious and the frozen margaritas are exceptional” at the Hart Bros’ “lively” Latino haunts: particularly the original SE1 branch – a “fabulous Mexican street food venue under the arches in Borough Market”. (The newer Soho branch with its basement ‘Mezcaleria Colmillo’ bar inspires good marks but much less feedback). In April 2024, they launched a new, 90-cover site in Battersea Power Station, with adjoining 60-cover, open-all-year, outdoor riverside terrace.

“Authentic burritos on Leather Lane” from Mexican food veteran Joel Henderson, who celebrates the 20th anniversary of his first London street-food stand this year.

A “very good Mexican near Tower Bridge”, which has a more café-style spin-off in Shoreditch. Both serve a selection of tacos, tostados and quesadillas and both make a feature of bottomless brunch, but at the original there’s also regional dishes, like sea bass cooked over a wood-fire grill and Beef Short Rib with Oaxacan Mole.

“Everyone wanted to give the ambience a 6/5!” Few London eateries have as much drama as Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’s double-height Mexican venue, atop King’s Cross’s so-hip Standard Hotel, where huge floor-to-ceiling windows provide dramatic vistas of London… and that’s just from the toilets! You access via a red, pill-shaped lift creeping up the outside of the building to a gob-smacking view of the top of St Pancras Station opposite. Surprisingly, it doesn’t inspire quite as many positive ratings as one might expect, perhaps because it’s far-from-cheap. That said, its combination of tacos, Latino seafood and steaks (most of it grilled), all of them washed down with mezcal cocktails, was well rated this year. Top Tip – “visit before 6.30 pm Tue-Fri for the ‘Menu del Dia’ at £30 per person”.

“For a large chain, they still do pretty much unbeatable Mexican fusion fare”, say fans of these “busy and atmospheric” street-food cafés, now with 11 London branches and three others around the UK. That said, there are also some niggles in feedback; and the sentiment is widespread that – though “still enjoyable” – the food can seem “a little mass-produced”. Even so, practically all diners still consider them “dependable for a quick, cheap ’n’ cheerful bite”. Top Tip – the new, 150-cover Paddington branch is their first opening in six years and puts a focus on sustainability and a menu including some larger sharing plates (e.g. grilled Achiote Seabass, Lamb Barbacoa and Chimichurri Cauliflower).

‘Mexican soul, British ingredients’ is the mantra at Santiago Lastra’s and MJMK’s “high-end” Latino venue off Portman Square, which has acquired a formidable reputation for its “wonderful” cooking – “their way of handling chillies is a masterclass” and contributes to a “fantastic” nine-course menu for £175 per person, all served in a “casual” and stylish setting. It’s “maybe a little overhyped claiming it’s the 17th best restaurant in the world” – and the UK’s best restaurant – according to World’s 50 Best listing: it certainly isn’t the highest scoring restaurant in our annual diners’ poll and for its deepest critics “the phrase Emperor’s New Clothes comes to mind”. But that’s not a widespread feeling of scepticism: the general impression is of an excellent venue that deserves most, just not quite all, of the accolades that have come its way.

“The tacos are good, the margaritas even better”, say fans of this ‘little sister’ to the Hart Bros’ El Pastor Mexican brand. Much hyped when it opened six years ago, these days it generates limited feedback in our annual survey of diners, but all reports agree it’s at least “serviceable” for a meal in fashionable Coal Drops Yard, near King’s Cross.

Don’t run a mile from the plastic life-size Mexican guarding the door to this basic cantina in a grungy corner of Surrey Quays, if you want to discover its “top-notch, authentic Mexican dishes”, and in particular “excellent tacos”. The odd aficionado of Latino fare crosses town for this place. (There’s also a branch near Euston at 160 Eversholt Street).

“Excellent, innovative and delicious food” – a surprising Mexican/Japanese fusion dubbed ‘Baja-Nihon cuisine’ by its founder, restaurant entrepreneur Markus Thesleff – has made quite an impact at this “amazing” Notting Hill three-year-old (on the former site of famous chippy Geale’s, RIP), leading to the launch last year of a City branch with a huge rooftop terrace next to Liverpool Street station. Top Tip – “everything in this restaurant is gluten-free and suitable for coeliacs” (it’s also nut- and celery-free).

This Notting Hill taco stalwart “really feels like Mexico”. Having operated from a stall on Portobello Road before opening on Westbourne Grove 20 years ago, it is one of London’s longest-running taco specialists, and now has an offshoot in Exmouth Market. It’s “great value”, too, and the imported Mexican beers, mescals and tequilas go down a treat (“it’s a good choice for lunch, especially if you have nothing else planned that day!”)

“For a large chain, they still do pretty much unbeatable Mexican fusion fare”, say fans of these “busy and atmospheric” street-food cafés, now with 11 London branches and three others around the UK. That said, there are also some niggles in feedback; and the sentiment is widespread that – though “still enjoyable” – the food can seem “a little mass-produced”. Even so, practically all diners still consider them “dependable for a quick, cheap ’n’ cheerful bite”. Top Tip – the new, 150-cover Paddington branch is their first opening in six years and puts a focus on sustainability and a menu including some larger sharing plates (e.g. grilled Achiote Seabass, Lamb Barbacoa and Chimichurri Cauliflower).

Open towards the second half of 2024 in Mayfair’s foodie Heddon Street, chef Santiago Lastra’s newcomer is a sequel to his smash-hit Kol, but is more accessible pricewise. It’s inspired by the regional cuisines of Mexico, where ‘fonda’ means a family-owned restaurant; and a ‘comal’ (clay griddle for cooking the likes of corn masa) is a centrepiece. Hero dishes include Duo de Callo (confit whole scallops on a gooseberry, sesame and burnt jalapeno salsa).

This Notting Hill taco stalwart “really feels like Mexico”. Having operated from a stall on Portobello Road before opening on Westbourne Grove 20 years ago, it is one of London’s longest-running taco specialists, and now has an offshoot in Exmouth Market. It’s “great value”, too, and the imported Mexican beers, mescals and tequilas go down a treat (“it’s a good choice for lunch, especially if you have nothing else planned that day!”)

“Superb elevated Mexican food” – “verging on fine dining” – is served at chef Yahir Gonzalez and former Sketch manager Tony Geary’s Shoreditch yearling that “deserves more recognition”. The Latino fare is “not the usual stuff”, with “interesting dishes” showcasing “sensational flavours, often gently spiced but some more so for those who want it hot”. “Knowledgeable and approachable staff” ensure a “very well-paced meal, with plates brought out in a thoughtful order (not whenever they’re ready, like so many other supposedly top small-plates places)”. Any sniping is generally reserved for the “industrial vibe” dining room, which some see as “far too noisy”: “they could do with creating some nooks and a bit more privacy for some of the tables”.

A “very good Mexican near Tower Bridge”, which has a more café-style spin-off in Shoreditch. Both serve a selection of tacos, tostados and quesadillas and both make a feature of bottomless brunch, but at the original there’s also regional dishes, like sea bass cooked over a wood-fire grill and Beef Short Rib with Oaxacan Mole.

Review: A “very good Mexican near Tower Bridge”, which has a more café-style spin-off in Shoreditch. Both serve a selection of tacos, tostados and quesadillas and both make a feature of bottomless brunch, but at the original there’s also regional dishes, like sea bass cooked over a wood-fire grill and Beef Short Rib with Oaxacan Mole.