Harden's says
Opened in October 2020, a Mexican restaurant from Santiago Lastra, who ran Noma's Mexico pop-up back in 2017.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Brilliant, just brilliant!” – “Kol saves the air miles of a visit to Mexico City and the fine dining scene there and shows how British ingredients can have a Central American lift” exclaim fans of Santiago Lastra’s “clubby” Latino off Portman Square; and what’s more you get a “fun evening, washing it all down with delicious cocktails”. “The innovation on show is seriously impressive using mainly UK ingredients” and it results in “an astonishing tasting menu, full of original and absolutely delicious flavours”. The occasional dud experience is reported (“interesting concept, but the result lacked zing”) but the more common gripe is that “it is PRICEY!”. Santiago has also confused matters with the opening this year of a cheaper spin-off, Fonda (see also – “Kol is a favourite of ours, but now Fonda is open we don’t go to Kol as often because it is so seriously expensive – but it is nonetheless the best Mexican food you will get in London and it is its skills with spicing that makes us still go back for more.”).
Summary
‘Mexican soul, British ingredients’ is the mantra at Santiago Lastra’s and MJMK’s “high-end” Latino venue off Portman Square, which has acquired a formidable reputation for its “wonderful” cooking – “their way of handling chillies is a masterclass” and contributes to a “fantastic” nine-course menu for £175 per person, all served in a “casual” and stylish setting. It’s “maybe a little overhyped claiming it’s the 17th best restaurant in the world” – and the UK’s best restaurant – according to World’s 50 Best listing: it certainly isn’t the highest scoring restaurant in our annual diners’ poll and for its deepest critics “the phrase Emperor’s New Clothes comes to mind”. But that’s not a widespread feeling of scepticism: the general impression is of an excellent venue that deserves most, just not quite all, of the accolades that have come its way.
Summary
“A revelation: I don’t think I really understood the beauty of chillies until I went to Kol, where they complement different ingredients in each dish… a gentle burn… never overpowering but genius!” – Santiago Lastra’s smart and well-spaced dining room, just off Portman Square, is justifiably hailed by its fans as “one of the more interesting restaurants in the capital”. “Top- quality, seasonal British produce is turned into amazing, refined Mexican food” and it “constantly surprises with its journey around Mexican spicing and cuisine, with many wonderful twists on traditional Latin flavours”. To accompany the menu there is a list of mezcals (and indeed an adjoining ‘mezcaleria’ and cocktail bar) and “many unusual wines which explore the less well known parts of the globe”. “Some of the cooking is clever, some beautifully presented, and it’s all excellent”.
Summary
“Ex-Noma pop-up chef, Santiago Lastra’s sort-of fine dining Mexican successfully redefines street food at this warm and high-end dining room”, just off Portman Square – “a welcome addition to Marylebone” that “deserves the hype” and which is emerging as one of London’s more “exciting” destinations right now. “The open kitchen allows the man himself to be seen” and a meal “feels like an occasion”, but one that’s “earthy” and “fun”. “The innovative use of British ingredients to recreate Mexican flavours is what makes this a really interesting culinary experience” – providing “twists on the genre which tantalise the palate” and deliver “immensely thoughtful and innovative” dishes with “deep savoury notes”. “And the wine list is both unusual and worth taking a risk on too: some hidden gems from small producers and uncommon countries which complement the food well”. “You are helped in your journey by a knowledgeable and unpretentious sommelier” and service generally is “excellent”. “Always buzzy, tables are hard to come by”. Top Tips – “the lobster taco is a real highlight and the mole something very special indeed”, while there’s “one of the finest vegan tasting menus in London”.
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Kol?
9 Seymour Street, London, W1H 7BA
Restaurant details
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £36.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £6.50 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 14.50% |
9 Seymour Street, London, W1H 7BA
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 5:45 pm‑12 am |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑12 am |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑12 am |
| Friday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑12 am |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 5:45 pm‑12 am |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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