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Summary

“An extraordinary restaurant for an extraordinary occasion!” – Up the “beautiful staircase” accessed through Hide Ground (see also), “no expense has been spared in the creation of this exquisite restaurant”, and the “cool” and incredibly spacious first-floor dining room of this Russian-owned yearling provides an impressively luxurious backdrop, “especially if you bag one of the tables facing Green Park”. You can choose from either the six-course or nine-course tasting menu, which comes with a vegetarian alternative (and a shorter, “more affordable” option at lunch) and there’s the “astonishing complement” of “nearby Hedonism Wines’ incomparable 6,000-strong list, as they will run your preferred bottle over if it’s not in the restaurant’s own cellar”. When it comes to Ollie Dabbous’s Scandi-inspired cooking, most reporters feel that “thankfully the food lives up to the posh surroundings”, delivering “precise, light and intriguing” cuisine that’s a “worthy successor to Dabbous”. “Impeccable”, “helpful” and “charming” service adds further to the mood. “OMG it’s oligarch prices” though, leaving doubters – who also feel some plates are a tad “over-engineered” – to conclude that “the biggest impression it leaves is the dent in your wallet!”