Evening Standard
Lauren O’Neill found “lots to love” about this rooftop Mexican at the Standard hotel opposite King’s Cross station, recast under Mexico City-born chef Paola Arenas following the departure of Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, whose menus had a more Spanish flavour.
The main drawback, she suggested, was an unevenness across the meal as more personal dishes like halibut with corn husk and pumpkin seeds or bream with mole jostled with the sort of crowd-pleasers required in a hotel restaurant.
There were triumphs, though. “Iberico pork served à la Flintstones — that is on an ostentatiously large bone and on top of a smoothed-out salsa morita — is a little short of fabulous.” Among desserts, rum-spiked tres leches “is a must”, while a dish listed only as ‘piña’ “turns out to be a refreshing and novel combo of grilled pineapple and pineapple sorbet”.
Lauren O'Neill - 2026-08-23