Shiplake, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

All-day outfit on the riverside highly commended for a “beautifully cooked and presented breakfast at very reasonable prices” – “the bonus is a great location if weather permits sitting outside”. It’s also a “solid venue for lunch” and later, with tacos, poke bowls, burgers as well as more substantial fare, including a “good vegan selection”. Founder Shaun Dickens was a hot-shot young chef at Le Manoir and Per Se in New York, but reined in his culinary ambitions to suit the venue.

“What a gem of a gastropub” – “creativity and good value” (“the set lunch menu is a tremendous bargain”) are the hallmarks of the cooking from chef Ben Watson, who returned to his home district in 2022 after working for some of London’s top chefs (Gordon Ramsay, Jason Atherton, Clare Smyth) to take over this well-established foodie venue just outside Henley. His wife Priya (ex-Gymkhana) runs the front of house, and the occasional South Asian twist on the modern British menu reflects her heritage.

In summer 2023, citing the need to ‘slow down’, TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson bowed out from his Oxfordshire gastropub after nearly two decades at the helm (the latter part of which was overshadowed by controversies relating to its anti-vaxxer stance, and, more recently, a worrying hygiene rating). While David Brown, who heads up Marlow’s Royal Oak has stepped into AWT’s shoes (the latter will remain on hand as a consultant), head chef Jamie Webber remains from the previous line-up, which should ensure continuity when it comes to the popular venue’s “generous” and “well-cooked” pub grub.

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

“Very much a local gem” – “Dom Chapman’s pub/restaurant remains a most attractive and well-run establishment”, with a “cosy and inviting interior”, “friendly staff” and a “great-value set menu if you want to save some money as well”. Ratings have slipped a notch on reports of some “pedestrian and inconsistent” dishes, but the broader message is of a “great local”.

2022 Review: The former Land’s End pub got a new lease of life (and name) in 2018 when it was taken over by Niki & Adam Fortes, and the best man at their wedding, Colin Savory (both Colin and Adam having a pedigree at top restaurants). The “great” countryside setting is enhanced by “superbly cooked” pub staples and finer fare and “you can tell there are real chefs in the kitchen”.

Owned by Henry Day, and with head chef Adam Hague — a tastefully decorated pub in this posh town launched in December 2024 with a flexible menu incorporating small and large plates and majoring in grills (various steaks, house blue-cheese burger, spatchcock poussin…). Some pleasing initial reports thus far, but not enough for a full rating – reports please!

2024 Review: “What a return” – chef Simon Bonwick is back on home turf at this diminutive and “lovely” sixteenth-century village pub, not far from The Crown at Burchetts Green, where he established a stellar reputation for classic French cooking over the previous decade. His food is “fabulous” – “precisely cooked with all the flavour you expect and more” (not least the “renowned” pies), and front of house (including wife Deborah) are “delightful, warm and welcoming with a smile”. PS – the chef himself created the artwork lining the quirky venue’s walls.

2022 Review: For “restaurant-quality food in a lovely country setting” head to this country pub, a few miles from Henley-on-Thames. The venue has been serving locals since 1860, and continues to draw positive reports for its simple yet refined seasonal plates.