Padstow Restaurant Guide

“Outstanding… that is all!”. Paul Ainsworth’s intimate and illustrious ten-year-old is nowadays the most-mentioned operation in town, far eclipsing Rick Stein’s nearby Seafood Restaurant in terms of the excitement it generates. “The kitchen can be seen from the tables, and is a dream to watch”, with “Paul himself almost invariably present”. The cuisine is as you might hope for – “technically accomplished, with quality materials, some inventiveness, and carefully prepared to preserve flavours”. “However, it’s the attention to detail, and the overwhelming passion for the place from its staff” that seals the experience for some diners: “nothing was too much trouble”.

“Just brilliant, incredibly fresh seafood” is the payoff for a visit to Rick & Katie Toogood’s “very small” and “cramped” venture (24 covers), which – since they made the move from Islington in 2015 – has shown it can compete with the best of the best in this foodie enclave. (They still also own the restaurant of the same name in N1).

“Windows overlooking the vineyard” afford views onto this peacefully located spot – run by Andy Appleton (a graduate of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall) although the “huge barn” it occupies can feel a tad “quiet” at less busy times. Numerous “excellent” meals are reported this year from its Med-slanted modern British menu.

Harsher reports say the Stein family’s “large and buzzing” HQ near the harbour wall (but without any views) is “overpriced and you’re paying for the name”. But, a more representative view on the cradle of Rick Stein’s TV celebrity is that “despite the close proximity of the tables in the dining room, it’s still worth a visit”. Yes, probably there are restaurants “just as good but cheaper elsewhere in Cornwall” (and it’s not in the same league as Nathan Outlaw’s restaurants down the coast), but most reports still acclaim its “good choice” of “fantastic and well-prepared fish”, agreeable atmosphere and “friendly, knowledgeable staff”.

One of six Stein venues in the Cornish capital of his empire, this casual outfit is notable for its “very good value”, and wins solid ratings for a “limited menu of well-cooked” fish and seafood.