Islington, Italian Restaurant Guide

“A gem, well worth a visit to darkest Highbury Corner”: as it enters its 10th year, Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda’s “great neighbourhood Italian” remains the survey’s most-mentioned destination in north London, buoyed by its “excellent, simple fare” and “efficient service”, served in a “compact” but romantic setting that “exudes a tremendous warmth” (“want a first date in a light airy space? Book upstairs, especially in summer; want a sexy tryst? Book a booth downstairs, especially in winter”). On the downside, some former fans feel it’s “dropped to middling” of late: “a local place, but with a centre-of-town bill”.

“There’s no better choice if you’re going to Islington’s Almeida Theatre” than this “cheerful Puglian” nearby, which serves “way better food than its touristy appearance suggests”: “simple, flavourful Italian dishes” washed down with “sensibly-priced, rustic, southern Italian wines”. “The atmosphere is unfussy, friendly and easygoing: you get a great meal and a very reasonable bill”.

It’s a “spacious, modern and stylish” venue – on the site of Islington’s Almeida (RIP) – but owners D&D London and respected chef Francesco Mazzei “really ought to up their game” here: it “beats a pizza chain”, but should deliver much more. As it is, being “convenient for the Almeida Theatre” is one of the best things that reporters have to say about it: “without this neighbour they probably wouldn’t survive”.

From the owners of Zia Lucia, this smallish (40-cover), summer 2019 newcomer aims to bring a similar experimental approach to pasta to that which has won Zia Luca a following for pizza, using different flours for its homemade creations. ‘Pasta – Roll with it’ is the catchy motto.