Islington, Italian Restaurant Guide

“An absolute hidden gem” – this “unassuming Italian in the heart of Angel”, close to the Almeida Theatre, is a “perfect neighbourhood spot”, serving “generous portions of fantastic rustic food” and “well-selected wines” that make a meal “like being on holiday”. It takes its name from the red earth of the Salento peninsula, the ‘heel’ of Puglia.

2019 Review: “Tucked away off Upper Street”, this genuine “small” deli/restaurant “has ‘Italy’ sprayed all over it” – “a busy and popular” spot, featuring “lots of regional ingredients”, and with “great fresh pasta” and “consistently fantastic pizza you can take away, too”.

One of Italy’s recent hits, this sustainable fast-food pasta business with 12 branches arrived in Covent Garden in November 2021(and quickly opened a second in Islington in June 2022). The limited feedback in our annual diners’ poll was somewhat in tune with The Telegraph’s William Sitwell (who was so disappointed he suggested the chain “be summoned to the foreign office and expelled”): “I was so excited based on all the social media around the place: food was average (as in something you’d make at home when you’re in a rush)”.

“A welcome recent addition to Islington” – this March 2022 newcomer from Louis Korovilas serves a short, seasonal menu of pastas and a modern take on Italian street-food snacks. But while “it’s a handy neighbourhood option for fresh pasta”, the overall verdict is that “it doesn’t quite compare to the likes of Padella or Bancone” (Korovilas used to work at the latter).

Opened on April 14 2023 in a backstreet Islington pub, Tiella is a six-month residency offering rustic Italian cuisine named after a Pugliese casserole of rice, potatoes, onions and mussels. Chef Dara Klein grew up in New Zealand with a family from Puglia, and her CV takes in highly rated kitchens including Sager + Wilde, Trullo and Brawn.