The Guardian
Grace Dent welcomed the new venue from Matthew Scott – “one of the most interesting cooks around right now” – and wine merchant Charlie Carr, the duo behind Papi in London Fields and the Hot 4 U pop-up, which showed how fledgling talent can develop in a pub with “a proper dining room”.
She was particularly impressed by a “wobbly, voluminous slice of Montgomery cheddar tart to which I have pledged my eternal fealty… tall, quivering, eggy, creamy, rich and piled high with grated cheese, with a glorious and foamy walnut and onion soubise for good measure”.
A mustardy stargazy pie stuffed with shredded chicken and a handful of red prawns was “generous, deeply comforting” and “perilously delicious”, while a dessert of lardy cake served with Baron Bigod cheese and honey was “plump, glossy and possibly fatal if eaten in sufficient quantity”.
Grace Dent - 2026-06-28
