Harden's survey result
“Intelligent, creative, modern British food from chef Ben Marks” is attracting widespread foodie attention at his “hip” two-year-old, whose huge picture windows overlook Newington Green. Still in his twenties, the Noma graduate wins praise for his “really great cooking and innovative thinking” – “you can really feel the kitchen’s sense of excitement at diners enjoying their delicious food”, and it’s “very rare to get a chef of this quality in the kitchen every night”.
“I cannot believe that somewhere like Perilla opened on Newington Green – what a fantastic addition to the local area!” Ben Marks and Matt Emerson’s yearling, “with its “huge picture windows overlooking the green”, “high ceilings, open aspect and well-spaced tables” serves some “astoundingly tasty dishes, using interesting earthy ingredients” and there’s “a great local feel to the place”. Not everyone who lives nearby is wowed, though: “I wanted to like this place, but found it too cool-for-skool”… “it was too quirky and elaborate and felt like a ‘concept” rather than a satisfying night of food”.
“A youthful team in the kitchen is pulling out all the stops” at Ben Marks and Matt Emerson’s new permanent venture near Newington Green – “one of the least stuffy upmarket restaurants ever”, which “makes the most of a slightly odd L-shaped room”. “Beautiful, fresh ingredients are ‘zhooshed up’ to great heights” – with the options of “a small but carefully calibrated menu” or an “amazing” 10-course taster menu plus matching wines – and “although not every dish is 100% successful, each is interesting and well-priced enough that all can be forgiven.” “Thoughtful and intelligent service” completes an impressive debut.
Following their stylish pop-ups across London, Ben Marks and Matt Emmerson are set to open Perilla in a permanent Newington Green location in November, with backing from Philip Howard, among others.
|Wine per bottle||£32.00|
1-3 Green Lanes, London, N16 9BS
|Monday||6 pm‑10 pm|
|Tuesday||6 pm‑10 pm|
|Wednesday||6 pm‑10 pm|
|Thursday||6 pm‑10 pm|
|Friday||6 pm‑10 pm|
|Saturday||12:30 pm‑3 pm, 6 pm‑10 pm|
|Sunday||11 am‑4:30 pm, 6 pm‑8:30 pm|