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Harden's survey result
“Innovative food” in a “hard and echoey” space still packs in the crowds at this hipster hit of a couple of years ago, just off the Holloway Road, which fans feel has a “great vibe” (even despite the fact that “when the place is full, conversation can be close to impossible”). The venue has always had its detractors, though, and there were more vocal complaints this year that the whole approach is “a little too cool for its own good” (i.e. “pleased with itself” and “disappearing up its own fundament”); which results in food that’s “not bad but underwhelming, so hard to see what all the fuss is about”. Also the natural wine list, “while pleasingly ambitious and different, has a high percentage of misses” (to the extent it can seem “plain daft”).
“You feel cool just knowing about this place!” – “a packed and unbelievably noisy room just off the Holloway Road”, which – on its launch in 2017 – scored some of the best newspaper critic reviews of the year. With its “edgy and friendly” approach and “urban, industrial-style decor”, it’s indisputably “a great addition to Drayton Park” but “after all the hype” numerous reporters felt anticlimactic: “nothing really bad” but “flavours didn’t always work together” and “while small plates are fashionable, these aren’t small, they’re tiny!” Tons of praise is recorded, too, though – “take your friends and dine on sharing plates, whose powerful and memorable tastes are so good you’ll want to scoff them all and not share!” Top Tip: “It’s best as a foursome, as couples may be squashed on the long sharing tables”.
Primeur owners David Gingell (chef) and Jérémie Cometto-Lingenheim (manager) have opened a second restaurant, in a modishly understated, converted 1950s former laundry (hence the name) in the shadow of the Emirates Stadium in Holloway. Early press reviews are ecstatic (Grace Dent food 5/5, ambience 5/5) regarding its simply prepared seasonal small plates – ‘focusing on produce from the sea’ – and educated selection of natural wines.
|Wine per bottle||£27.00|
34 Drayton Park, London, N5 1PB
closed Mon; Tue-Thu D only, Fri & Sat open L & D, Sun L only
Last orders: 10.30 pm, Sun 5 pm