East Sussex Restaurant Guide

“Just off the front in a charming maze of streets in Hove”, Duncan Ray’s small 20-seater is “a cute spot with no fine dining trappings to make you feel awkward”. He is at the stoves alone, creating an ever-changing five-course menu of sustainable seafood: “just gorgeous fish cookery from raw to grilled – not hugely fancy, just brilliantly conceived and executed”.

“The tiny backstreet original of the Ginger empire” – near the front – Ben & Pamela McKellar’s stalwart favourite has earned itself a sizeable and enduring fan club over two decades with its “intimate” style, “attentive but unobtrusive service” and, most importantly, its “wonderfully consistent, accomplished, fresh and tasty dishes”. “The true king of Brighton’s food scene!”

“Fine dining experience without a fine dining ambience” – MasterChef: The Professionals winner Steven Edwards continues to cook up a storm at his converted bank in Hove, which offers a choice of five-, seven- or nine-course menus. All reports are of “attention to detail, with a personal touch” resulting in food with “depth of flavour and delicacy that’s a level up from most other such places”. Top Tip – “juice flight for the non-alcoholic drinkers”.

“A great new opening in Hove, with experienced staff from Ginger group”: this new bistro (from Robert Maynard, Faye Hudson and James Thomson, together with chef Oliver Derby) only opened in April 2019 (in the middle of our survey) but is already inspiring enthusiastic reviews from reporters, who say it’s “a perfect local” with “friendly and efficient service as you would expect of such a team, but also really good food” and – last but not least – a “brilliant wine list” (there are 120 bins to choose from).

It’s 15 years since this basement in a Kemptown boutique hotel helped raise the excitement level about Brighton’s eateries, and it remains one of the city’s better dining destinations to this day. One repeat visitor was “disappointed on a return-visit after many years”, but most reporters still rate the cuisine here very highly and the only other gripe we received this year was “pity it doesn’t have a sea view…”

One of England’s oldest restaurants: the Leigh-Jones family’s seafood period-piece, in the Lanes – run by the clan since 1945, but established in the 1890s – has a “huge number of things to recommend”, not least its “lovely fresh local oysters and mussels” and an outside terrace for sunny days.

“Overall just a fantastic experience” – a Lanes oyster bar, with a spinoff on the promenade (“both are very popular”), which wins numerous raves for “the most amazing seafood”, combined with “brilliant” service and a pleasingly “informal” set-up (communal tables) whereby “you might easily find yourself sharing a tall table with strangers”.

“Wonderful, very quirky choices cooked to order” inspire an ongoing outpouring of love for this “casual” small-plates venue, owned by Great British Menu 2017 winner, Michael Bremner. Consequently, it’s “a little crowded” but “good fun”, with “slick and quick service” – “a vibrant spot where you can sit very squashed on a stool at the bar watching the kitchen cook and serve great food!”