Cornwall, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

“Reliably good food with some interesting touches” is on the menu at this hotel bistro in an old stone building in the heart of the town from the Rick Stein group, with what is perhaps a surprisingly large proportion of non-fish dishes. It’s also generally “good value”.

Stunningly located on the seafront in St Mawes, this staple of design and travel magazines is the flagship of the Polizzi Collection, run by interiors guru Olga Polizzi and her ‘Hotel Inspector’ daughter Alex (who also oversee Hotel Endsleigh near Tavistock and, most recently, The Star in Alfriston, East Sussex). The food, which again elicited solid marks this year, can be taken in the chic dining room or more casual Dog’s Head bar.

“Fabulous beach-front location, great fish cookery and good wines” combine to guarantee an “altogether enjoyable lunch or dinner” at this St Ives fixture, led for more than 20 years by Aussie-born chef Mick Smith, who benefits from “not trying too hard to be innovative”.