Bethnal Green, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Unbeatable for a classic full English breakfast” – but perhaps most popular for the accompanying bants – this Bethnal Green café, notable for its Grade II-listed Art Deco interior, has been run by four generations of the Pellicci family since 1900 – Maria, the current boss, has cooked here since 1966.

A superb location – on the Regent’s Canal and complete with heated terrace – helps justify the continued inclusion of this Hackney Italian. Feedback is too thin and nuanced for a full rating this year – according to one fan it’s “still good all round, but the ratio of hype to expectations is high”.

“I’m pleased they kept the hanging lights of the former Corner Room” – the previous occupant of this restaurant space within the monumental, erstwhile Bethnal Green Town Hall (nowadays a hotel). Chef Rafael Cagali runs the much-fêted Da Terra next door, and this October 2022 newcomer provides “a simplified version of the Michelin two-star cuisine” at its neighbour. Reports included plus points: “the quality combinations are full of flavour” and service is “decent”, while on the debit side, ambience has sometimes proved elusive and sentiments seem a tad muted: there are no full-on raves at how marvellous and incredible it all is. Top Menu Tip – dulce de leite doughnuts.