Jay Rayner in The Observer is rather far afield this week as he reviews Zuni Cafe, San Francisco… The Zuni roast chicken is certainly a thing… featured on myriad lists of greatest restaurant dishes Is it… Sensational? Not quite, but it is very, very good. …faux peasant, faux rustic fantasy. Zuni has long been regarded as a […]
This week we bring you the chance to compare and contrast two different restaurants as the Observer’s Jay Rayner and Tim Hayward in the FT both review Nuala, while Kathryn Flett’s Telegraph article and the Evening Standard’s Nicky Haslam deliver their opinions on the revival of Roganic… Jay Rayner in The Observer, likens restaurant reviewing […]
Nicholas Lander in The Financial Times reviews Kai Mayfair, Grand Imperial at Charing Cross Hotel and Four Seasons on Chinatown’s Gerard Street, in anticipation of Chinese New Year (the Year of the Dog begins on 16 February)… “The long-established Kai Mayfair has a menu that is well attuned to wealthy clientele. While the high prices could, I suppose, […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer falls head over heels for Bertha at Edo, a new restaurant from former Ramsay protégé Jonny Elliot which opened discreetly in Belfast last year. To clarify, Bertha is the name of their wood-fired oven. You weren’t expecting her to be the waitress were you? “One of the issues with somewhere like […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer is more than able for Soho institution L’Escargot – seeing as he “bloody loves a snail” and all. It is the critic’s first article as part of the launch of Observer’s new magazine… “L’Escargot is your stylish auntie, the one who knows how to grow old gracefully. Oh, and it does snails, […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer loves Stevie Parle’s Roman restaurant in Clerkenwell – Palatino – so much he doesn’t want to leave… “I don’t want to leave. Ever. I am very happy here in my lunchtime booth, as deep winter daylight falls, the lovely things keep arriving at my table and a fug of contentment settles. I […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer wants to love the newly refurbished Simpsons in the Strand, but the booze prices (“a maniacal laugh in the face of sanity”), “calamitous” Beef Wellington, and lack their infamous breakfast rather spoils his fun… “I want to love Simpson’s in the Strand. I want to adore it, in the way I once […]
Giles Coren in the Times revisits Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (the original on Royal Hospital Road) and finds the three Michelin star level service to be just a bit much… “Smartly redone a couple of years ago in the art deco style, it must look great when empty, but it was so rammed with waiters that I […]
