Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 8th March 2026 The Guardian Trillium, Birmingham Grace Dent warmed to a “weird, bold, silly restaurant”, where high-profile Brummie chef Glyn Purnell has “miraculously” managed to translate Michelin-style cooking for what she called a “semi-rowdier yet still upmarket stage”: “there’s […]

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Chef Conor Gadd, co-owner of Italian neighbourhood trattoria Trullo in Islington, has opened his first solo venture, taking over the venue previously occupied by Petersham Nurseries in Covent Garden’s Floral Court. Burro (meaning ‘butter’) is billed as a “part Irish country house kitchen, part Italian fifties bistro“, serving “warm, evocative and creative food” that expresses […]

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The City of London’s notorious appetite for red meat shows no sign of abating, with the opening of two new steakhouses within 10 minutes’ walk of each other this week. The Four Seasons hotel at Tower Bridge has replaced La Dame de Pic, its highly rated French restaurant from visiting star chef Anne-Sophie Pic, with […]

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From an impoverished childhood in Sri Lanka, chef Larry Jayasekara has completed an extraordinary journey to running The Cocochine in Mayfair, where guests feast on immaculately prepared European cuisine accented with South Asian flavourings. HARDEN’S caught up with him at the restaurant as its second anniversary approaches this month.  Larry grew up in a small […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 1st March 2026 The Guardian Pavyllon, Mayfair Grace Dent, a proud member of the early-rising “5am Club”, followed a heavily hyped trend to sample an upmarket power breakfast at the Four Seasons hotel on Park Lane, suggesting: “Perhaps now […]

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The highly anticipated reopening of Simpson’s-in-the-Strand under Jeremy King begins to take shape next week with the soft launch of its signature restaurant, the Grand Divan – famous for roast beef carved tableside from silver trolleys. Founded in 1828, Simpson’s became famous as the most quintessentially English of the capital’s grand dining establishments, but its closure […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 22nd February 2026 The Guardian Sông Quê Pho Bar, Shoreditch Grace Dent hailed the new canteen offshoot from a 25-year-old Vietnamese institution that serves “the best phở in town” – al-dente noodles in a “very meaningful broth”, topped with a […]

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