Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 February 2020. Casa do Frango, London EC2 “Tortured food v excellent ingredients unmucked-about — I know what wins every time” Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times was craving chicken and chips after enduring a TV show in which Heston Blumenthal made a […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 2 February 2020. Mei Mei, London SE1 Jimi Famuwera for The Evening Standard is the first to report on Elizabeth Haigh’s new Borough Market Kitchen outlet; the “tiny counter café” that’s “a meticulous, loving riff on the thrumming ‘kopitiam’ coffee shops that are […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 26 January 2020. Muse, London SW1 It wasn’t just us then. “Tom Aikens’s new bijou “experience-led” fine dining restaurant was greeted with snorts of derision as possibly the most pretentious ever.” But the last laugh is on us, as David Sexton […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 19 January 2020. Paradise, London W1 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times booked for a return visit to Paradise immediately after her first, and even “felt so evangelical about the place” that she posted on Instagram about the mutton […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 15 December 2019. This week’s Christmas article / ‘best of the year’ round-up came from Nicholas Lander in The Financial Times, who gave us his list of favourites (“in 2020, restaurateurs must offer the hospitality many of us crave”). […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 1 December 2019. The Leaping Hare, Suffolk Jay Rayner for The Observer discovered “one of the good ones” in Suffolk this week – even though he’s “late to this party, by about a quarter of a century” as it’s […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 24 November 2019. The Kinneuchar Inn, Fife Marina O’Loughlin had four “evangelical” tips for the place she reviewed in The Sunday Times today – “it’s unusual to be sent four recommendations in a row for anywhere, let alone a […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 17 November 2019. Vardo, London SW3 and Ozone, London E2 Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times visited two places this week; both what she describes as “third-wave” coffee shops (she missed the first two). “Coffee shops are now equipped […]

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Harden’s (slightly delayed) weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 10 November 2019. Norma, London W1 Jay Rayner for The Observer called Norma “a place of joy”. Well, actually, he didn’t, but thanks to some lazy sub-editing, that’s what the headline says; Jay was actually referring to […]

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