Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 6 October 2019. Mao Chow, London E8 Jimi Famuwera from The Evening Standard sometimes feel like “a well-meaning wrecking ball” (“the walking scourge of overrun kitchens and treasured local secrets”) when he reviews small restaurants. “Can that already-mobbed neighbourhood […]

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