A no-nonsense English bistro, near Camden Town tube; a friendly sort of place, it offers plain cooking – in a style which, until recently, might have been called ‘domestic’ – at reasonable prices.
First, in the early ’90s, we had what we now call gastropubs. By the late-’90s, a retro-style of English cooking was beginning to evolve (or, more accurately, be rediscovered), which might be described – for want of any better term – as gastropub-style cooking. Then, by the mid-00s, people were beginning to figure out that there wasn’t any necessary affinity between gastropub-style cooking and former public houses.
Recent times have seen the creation of establishments such as 32 Great Queen Street, which – being asssociated with the famous Anchor & Hope – has all the style of a gastropub, but no pub. In a different way, the smart modernist Canteen chain has also made quite a success by disassociating gastropub-style cooking from the gastropub-style environment.
And so things go full circle, and we now see establishments such as Market, which is for all the world like a classic no-nonsense Gallic bistro (or café, as the French might call it), except for the fact that everything about it is resolutely English. Mackerel pÃ¢te ‘n’ toast, pollack ‘n’ chips, fruit crumble ‘n’ custard – that’s the sort of fare you find done here. And all – on the basis of our lunch for three – consistently done very well here.
Look out for more establishments like this – we hope they’re all done as well.