Thatcham Restaurant Guide

“Despite losing its Michelin star, standards at the Woodspeen remain very high” according to practically all of the many reports on this restored pub in West Berkshire, which was transformed in 2013 by top catering CEO, Alastair Storey (and which is one of the top-50 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll). There is a variety of menus, including a sensibly priced à la carte option all served in a stylish setting (which includes a striking, high-ceilinged contemporary space added onto the original building). “I have been dining at The Woodspeen since it opened. I have seen the team develop over the years. It’s an excellently run restaurant with great food. May have lost its Michelin star but it is as great as it always has been in my view”. Top Tip – “good value for money, especially for the set lunch”.

Reopened in June 2024 (after our diners’ poll had concluded), this well-known inn (Kate Middleton’s favourite back in the day) has been relaunched under new management and after a £750,000 refit with seven rooms for accommodation. Gone are the days of its traditional British menu: Nick Galer and his team now present Basque-influenced dishes, including tapas and cured meats, and the interior has been significantly changed, incorporating a charcoal-fired grill at the centre of a big open kitchen. There’s still a separate bar and big outside area; and they still run their popular weekly pizza nights (now on Sundays) when they fire up the big oven in the garden.

“Excellent pub with rooms with a superb restaurant, serving delicious food” that “shows influences from the Mediterranean to the Middle East and beyond”. “They’re the bunch who have taken over the nearby Pot Kiln gastropub, so we were bumped into the hotel… but it was a pleasant bump – great food, reasonably priced and welcoming service/surroundings”.

Jason King & Simon Page met in Hong Kong before coming back to these shores to take over this “quintessential country inn” on the Hampshire/Berkshire border in 2005. While the odd diner feels that “prices are on the high side”, all agree the kitchen hits “consistently high standards”, with herbs plucked from the “beautiful gardens”, and staff “doing their best to cope” amid a “pleasantly chaotic” ambience.

“A lovely setting on the river” (the stretch of the Thames commemorated in ‘Wind of the Willows’, and best admired from the terrace) elevates a visit to this former boathouse, last used for the ferry in 1967. Happily, the “charming modern interior still retains some of the character of this long-established venue”, despite a more pub-like refurb in recent years, and there was praise this year for some “tasty and filling” cuisine (and at a “very reasonable” price tag too).

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

This “lovely restored Victorian lido” (complete with heated swimming pool and spa) has been “the best ticket in the culinary disaster of Reading for several years now”. One regular feels that the Mediterranean-style food “is still good, but the à la carte prices seem to have gone up more here than most places – still, it always feels like you’ve had a mini-holiday when you’ve been here”.

Set on a 400-acre estate, this converted 18th-century manor house is nowadays a 45-room hotel and promotes its commitment to sustainability, complete with its own biodynamic farm. Skye Gyngell (of London’s Spring) oversees the dining room, which receives a very mixed rep in our annual diners’ poll. Many are wowed or find the cuisine “tasty but playing it a bit safe”, while others settle for “OK, but thought it would be better”, and nobody says it’s terrible. Views diverge on the interior, too – “soulless” to some but an “exceptional” highlight to others.

In summer 2023, citing the need to ‘slow down’, TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson bowed out from his Oxfordshire gastropub after nearly two decades at the helm (the latter part of which was overshadowed by controversies relating to its anti-vaxxer stance, and, more recently, a worrying hygiene rating). While David Brown, who heads up Marlow’s Royal Oak has stepped into AWT’s shoes (the latter will remain on hand as a consultant), head chef Jamie Webber remains from the previous line-up, which should ensure continuity when it comes to the popular venue’s “generous” and “well-cooked” pub grub.

This “fabulous” and “colourful” Chilterns gastroboozer “consistently delivers” – even well into its fourth decade in business. “Look out for the music nights” combining “imaginative pub food” with “live performances by artists far beyond what you’d expect from a rural pub” – but then again, this isn’t just any pub: it’s famously run by chef-proprietor Paul Clerehugh (ex-of glam rockers Sweet), and Kate Winslet hosted her wedding breakfast here.

“Absolutely superb!” – Nandana & Sharat Syamala have earned an enviable reputation for “fresh and exceptional regional Indian cuisine” that reflects their backgrounds in Hyderabad and Andhra Pradesh (“loads of dishes I’ve never tried before and really wanted to eat!)”. After five years, they moved into new premises in neighbouring Caversham in 2024. Top Menu Tip – “bhuna venison: mic drop. Glad for once I live in Reading”.

There’s “an unashamed emphasis on pork” (as per the name) at this “excellent find in Wallingford”, co-run by the founders of local offy The Keep, and launched via crowdfunding; “the scotch eggs and doughnuts are justifiably lauded” and all part of the “comfort therapy” the venture provides (be it via bottomless brunches or a range of small plates). Locals “feel very lucky to have such a lovely restaurant nearby”, while out-of-towners scouting for a new home are “hoping we find one, as I want to come back soon!”.