Thatcham Restaurant Guide

“Just feeling right without making the appearance of a great effort” – this “busy upmarket restaurant” in a swishly converted former pub is “always worth the drive” for its large fanbase drawn from a wide swathe of Home Counties and London postcodes that extend far from its West Berkshire location. One of the top-40 most commented on restaurants outside London in our annual diners’ poll, it’s a “lovely new building” where the sum of the experience owes much to the all-round appeal of its “high quality cuisine” and “attentive service” all in a “classic and well-mannered” but modernified style.

Basque-influenced cuisine – much of it from the charcoal grill – is now the order of the day at this “beautifully situated” pub, deep in the back-of-beyond of West Berkshire (in fact quite close to the M4, though you’d never know). The days when it was famous for its game dishes are gone – today you will discover an assortment of tapas plus more substantial fare – from Catalan fish stew to ‘12 Hour Lamb Shoulder’. Fans say it’s "really lovely” and “very well executed”. On the downside, one or two old timers can’t get with it. (“I really want to like this pub, I have been coming for years and its situation and ambience is idyllic, quintessential English countryside. But the prices are expensive and the tapas-style small plates and mains to share just aren’t that inviting”).

“A charming venue in a picture-postcard village location” – this “excellent” pub-with-rooms has a “lovely bright restaurant serving superb food” with influences from around the world, and a “good range of private dining options”. Charles I is said to have dined here during the English Civil War.

This “truly exceptional” establishment near the Hampshire/Berkshire border strikes “a nice balance between a traditional pub and a gastropub, combining the best of both”. Jason King & Simon Page are notching up their 21st year here in 2025, and “the consistency of the quality over the last two decades has been great”, with “delicious food” on a blackboard menu that’s “always interesting” and “impeccable service”.

“A long-established restaurant that has moved with the times” from classically trained chef-patron Keith Marshall and his wife Julie, who have together provided “consistent quality cooking with excellent service” for almost four decades, in a pair of elegantly converted 16th-century cottages with a beautiful garden boasting views over Watership Down.

2022 Review: “This superb gastropub” – an eighteenth-century inn “two minutes from the Thames and convenient for London day-trippers” – serves “interesting food with some high gastronomy”: “all produce is locally sourced, and bread made and butter churned in-house”. Husband-and-wife patrons Nick & Mary Galer (both ex-Fat Duck Group) “clearly care about what they do and look after their diners”. Ratings dropped a notch this year amid reports of “the odd off note” – possibly they “need a bit more practice after lockdown”.

2023 Review: “A brilliant location” – on a picture-perfect stretch of lush Thames riverbank – is the justification for maintaining the listing of this Thames Valley veteran, on the fringe of Goring. On a sunny day, there are few nicer places to be. Its “classic Italian menu”? Not much commented on (nor, to be fair, criticised) and not the main point.

“A fabulous setting right on the River Thames” – a stretch of water admired by writers from HG Wells to Kenneth Graham – makes this former boathouse ideal for “al-fresco dining” – or a “superior traditional Sunday lunch”. If most reporters reckon “the cooking is OK but nothing to write home about”, it’s “still a good place to sit and just look at the view”.

This Grade II-listed gastroboozer in an Oxfordshire village risked closure post-pandemic, but a group of investors – including tennis whizz Tim Henman – served up an ace to save it. Reborn in 2022 after a slight rebrand to reflect the continuing presence of French, Roux-trained chef Olivier Bouet (who runs it alongside wife Stephanie), the food ranges from pastas to decadent desserts and there’s also a “super wine list”. Add in personable staff and it’s game, set, match.

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

“It would be damning with faint praise to say that this is one of Reading’s better restaurants, but it certainly is” – a “striking” and “carefully converted Lido” with spa, where you dine poolside and enjoy the “romantic” and “soothing” spectacle of “watching others swim whilst you eat”. “The dishes nod towards the Mediterranean and feature a wealth of flavours and textures”, as well as feeling “healthy and wholesome” (except, that is, the “naughty but nice” desserts). Some regulars here this year, though, said the food was “good, but not as good as on our last visit”.

A Georgian country house hotel packed with British post-war art and “within easy reach of London” for the mini-break set; Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries Café fame oversees the two restaurants, with Marle being the fancier, orangery-style dining room with a Michelin Green Star reflecting the hotel’s focus on sustainability. As in previous years, not everyone is convinced by the pared-back dishes, with those who “enjoyed the occasion” counterbalanced by those who found it “somewhat lacking – expected more”. But even cynics concede it’s still “above average”.

The ‘live-fire’ option at this Hampshire spa hotel offers “excellent if expensive food from the marvellous Skye Gyngell”, making best use of “lovely locally grown ingredients” and of an informal setting in the old stable block – for some guests it’s their “favourite of the Heckfield Place restaurants”, in preference to the more formal dining room-based Marle.

In summer 2023, citing the need to ‘slow down’, TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson bowed out from his Oxfordshire gastropub after nearly two decades at the helm (the latter part of which was overshadowed by controversies relating to its anti-vaxxer stance, and, more recently, a worrying hygiene rating). While David Brown, who heads up Marlow’s Royal Oak has stepped into AWT’s shoes (the latter will remain on hand as a consultant), head chef Jamie Webber remains from the previous line-up, which should ensure continuity when it comes to the popular venue’s “generous” and “well-cooked” pub grub.

One of the UK’s first wave of modern gastropubs (est. 1989, pipping the Eagle in Farringdon by a couple of years), this Chilterns village boozer serves an “imaginative menu which changes daily” in a “great atmosphere”. But there’s more to it: founder Paul Clerehugh is a former guitarist with 1970s glamrockers The Sweet, and organises “great music nights” in the pub’s heated marquee, attracting an eclectic line-up of performers (George Harrison in the early years; last year, Nigel Kennedy, the Bay City Rollers and Geno Washington).

A menu of ‘British Tapas’ “changes regularly and the wine list has loads on it to love” at this popular venue, in a very scenic townhouse, next to the bridge and overlooking the River Kennet, in the centre of the town, also praised for staff who are “always welcoming, but never stuffy”.

2023 Review: After months of restoration, this 17th century Georgian building near Newbury re-opened in January 2022 and now boasts a traditional pub, very attractive pitched-roof dining room in contemporary style and 30-bed coaching inn, as well as a covered garden terrace. No feedback as yet in our annual diners’ poll – reports please!