London Crouch End Restaurant Guide

This “enjoyable tapas” bar in Crouch End (sibling to Stokie’s Escocesa, see also) is suitably “cramped and authentic”, and for a dozen years has been “a handy spot to have on the doorstep, with a very good Spanish wine list, mostly available by the glass”. ‘Esteban’ was founded by Stephen Lironi, a Glasgow-born music producer, backed here by Spanish duo chef Pablo Rodriguez and manager Naroa Ortega. No complaints about the quality, although “the menu rarely changes”.

First-time guests are “massively surprised” to find “really inventive and tasty cooking” – especially “seafood with a twist” – at this family-run Crouch End local. It’s a “lovely, romantic spot”, too – although “it can feel cramped and noisy when busy”.

“Lovely food, lovely atmosphere and discreet staff” are the attractions at this “local” bistro, a Crouch End fixture for more than 20 years. “Love it! The rooms are like a maze”, with white tablecloths adding a touch of style.

“A favourite neighbourhood spot over many years”, say fans of this Crouch End Turk, for whom it “continues to outshine its competitors on Harringay’s Green Lanes”. The ambience has improved of late with “stylish but comfortable new chairs, slick marble-topped tables and trendy ceramic plateware and cutlery” but not everyone’s wild about the “traditional murals depicting global tourist hotspots”.

“A diamond gem of the neighbourhood!” – this “unique”, if “tiny and cramped” traditional Gallic bistro in Crouch End is “always a joy”, according to most of the many who comment on it. “Chef Robert and FOH Jean-Christophe are simply wonderful” (“two guys having fun on their own terms”) and “the interaction with the owners and French retro-cooking served with real enthusiasm make for a really delightful experience” (and one that’s “pretty good value considering the quality”). More cautions reporters like it, but say “it’s fine if you treat it as a local bistro that’s good but not exceptional all round” (“we ourselves do not visit for the quality of the cuisine, but it’s the lovely and jolly service and the liveliness of the atmosphere that justify the 30-mile round trip from Theydon Bois!”). Fans, though, say it’s sheer “perfection”: “if I lived nearby I’d go every night!”. Top Menu Tips – “perfect onion soup”; excellent rib-eye with peppercorn sauce; “beautifully rich Tarte Tatin”.

It’s “all about the wine, as you might expect” at James Dawson’s “relaxed” wine-bar group, whose branches boast a “splendid list” of “high-quality and well-sourced” bottles. The food is very much “second fiddle”, though “unobjectionable”, while the most interesting venue is the original one, off Fleet Street, “hidden in the vaults of St Bride’s Church”. Top Tip – “go on a Monday night for wine at shop rather than restaurant prices”.