Haslemere, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This restored village pub offers “some great food in an area that needs more restaurants – their stuffed bao bun was worth the trip on its own”. Its co-owner, model Jodie Kidd, posed nude for a new pub sign to protest that pub closures are ‘stripping’ Britain’s heritage; it was removed on council orders in 2023.

“A very welcoming home from home feeling” underpins the appeal of this characterful venue, cutely located amidst the antique shops of this civilised small town. An upscale bistro/brasserie menu “tastes delicious and is locally sourced” and there’s also “an extensive wine list and cocktail list to choose from”. Top Menu Tips – “Lovely tender and generous portion of Wagyu beef croquette to start. The lamb rump had some really creative vegetable choices with an eastern hint”.

A “glamorous” outpost of Richard Caring’s ever-growing brasserie empire set across two floors, and with a particularly scenic patio overlooking the headline attraction announced in its name. As per its siblings, the menu hops from British classics to Asian-inspired dishes and veggie options, and there’s currently a two-course ‘£19.17 Menu’ revisiting classics from the original London restaurant, from their famed shepherd’s pie to frozen berries with white chocolate sauce; also as with its siblings, not everyone is convinced by the food (“nothing to rave about”) but it remains one of the more commented-upon venues in these parts.

2022 Review: Current owners The Epicurean Collection – behind a string of boutique pubs and inns – have a hit on their hands with this award-winning venture: a “worthy addition to an area generously supplied with high-quality country pubs”. The rolling South Downs beyond the windows inform much of the “imaginative menu”, with a particular accent on introducing non-shooting folk to game (the latter courtesy of the local Goodwood Estate).

“The food just gets better and better” at this “delightful beamed restaurant” in a “quaint Surrey village” that is frequently used for film locations. Built as two labourers’ cottages circa 1620, the restaurant is divided into “cosy small rooms, with lovely outside seating in summer”, where Tante Claire-trained chef Mohssine El Fadi presents an “eclectic menu with good choice of dishes”; having joined the kitchen 20 years ago, he bought the business with general manager Jack Forrest Foster in 2019. Top Menu Tip – “the fish cooking is always spot-on”.

“The castle is situated in a picture postcard setting” – down a long drive through gardens with the portcullis still working – and “in the upstairs dining room of this luxury establishment you could imagine a long dining table and the nobles sitting round and having a feast”. No surprise that it always induces feedback, particularly as a “romantic choice”. But there’s general agreement that the “traditional British cuisine” is somewhere between OK and “nothing too special” (“The food doesn’t live up to the stunning setting and the predictability of the menu means we visit much less often these days”).

“Given the reputation of the chain of Pig Restaurants/Hotels, we were looking forward to a very enjoyable evening; and it was enjoyable… but not because of the food”. Too many reports this year had significant reservations about this branch of the famous shabby chic hotel chain, where “the conservatory restaurant is very pleasant on a sunny day with long views across wooded Sussex downland”. “Rammed and noisy, with a car park full of expensive motors, this beautiful spot in the South Downs (reached by a narrow lane)” can “ultimately seem more style than substance” for a number who comment. “The food is pleasant, nice, but nothing special… better than adequate but not worthy of their reputation”. “The menu focuses on sourcing ingredients from within 25 miles, including some zero-miles vegetables grown on site – but the cooking doesn’t justify the prices. It’s at the level you might expect in a pub that serves decent enough food but with no pretensions to being noted for its cooking”. “In other words, a restaurant in lovely surroundings living on their reputation not their quality”. “Service is satisfactory but a touch amateur at times” and at others “disengaged”.

2022 Review: “The food is excellent, and you’re made to feel welcome” at this showcase for the produce of the Goodwood Estate, an early convert to organic farming (although Lord March, the Duke of Richmond, is better known as a petrol-head). “They’ve turned the courtyard into a lovely space”, and the highlight of the menu is the ‘butcher’s board’ sharing selection of various meat cuts.

“A very well-run and vast pub/restaurant which has managed to balance itself between the two”. Between the “reliable and fresh” British grub, “well-kept beers” and “friendly and efficient team” (plus a lovely garden) it’s “always a delight to visit”.

“Love the ambience… no pressure to quit the table and nice to overlook the river” – such are the plus points of these flexible, comfortable and welcoming homes-from-home in the Home Counties and in London near Tower Bridge and in Putney. Celebration? Both locations also feature funky little Thames-side ‘igloos’ seating up to 8. Looking for great food too? Don’t bother! “Disappointment” is often registered regarding the salads, pizza and other very middle of the road fare – keep your celebrations as liquid as possible…

2023 Review: This “excellent South Downs destination in a picture-perfect village” – “with fine, restaurant-quality cooking” from chef Jesse Bryson (ex-Noble Rot and Leroy) – “is flourishing for good reason”. The stone-built seventeenth-century pub was taken over in 2020 by Angus Davies, a former manager at Chez Bruce and Lorne.

A former courthouse with exposed beams plays host to this rustic and tiny European restaurant run by chef Nathan Marshall and FOH wife Evi, a “lovely lady” whose Hungarian roots sometimes inspire the fine-dining on the menu. On limited feedback this year, there were reports of some “delicious” dishes and as we went to press, demand for a table was so high that they were already fully booked for 2024! Top Tip – to circumvent the need to book way ahead, keep an eye on their Instagram account (@n.marshall_chef), where they sometimes advertise last-minute cancellations.