West Yorkshire Restaurant Guide

“Why it lost its Michelin star I do not know, it was as good as ever”, so it’s hard to avoid the conclusion that this Yorkshire institution has been unfairly cursed by the tyre company. Established in 1962, this “intimate and opulent” venue is Yorkshire’s answer to Le Gavroche: “a proper classical restaurant, with all the standards of service, napery, glassware, etc that we're always being told aren't important for the dining public these days”. But since the October 2018 demotion by Michelin, change has been been nearly non-stop. The star loss led to the immediate departure of head chef Kieran Smith and appointment of Samira Effa in his stead. Then in April 2019 Michael Carr joined because Samira didn’t last. All the while “despite the upheavals, the Box Tree has sailed serenely on: the chintz still looks out over the hushed rooms, Didier da Costa still presides over a great wine list, and there is still soufflé for dessert”. And practically all reports still attest to its “impeccable”, somewhat classical cuisine and “gentle, low-key hospitality that treats you beautifully”. In September 2019 – more change – as Simon and Rena Gueller announced they are selling up, despite significant investment in the property these last two years. Hopefully the next owners will just forget Michelin, and continue to do what the place has been doing so well (and it’s rated on that basis).

“Intimate… delightfully eclectic” – there’s no shortage of plaudits for this “romantic” fixture, where there’s “no menu but all the choices are on a giant blackboard”. The overall effect is “just like dining in France…confit of duck, French onion soup, boeuf bourguignon etc.”, and the early-evening menu is “amazing value for money” too.

2019 Review: “Meat, meat and more meat” is the “best thing” at this central branch of a chain featuring Brazilian ‘rodizio’ (a buffet, where you eat as much as you like for a fixed price). “If your definition of a good deal is more grilled meat than you can comfortably stomach, this is the place for you!”. “Nice views over the wharf” too “(it doesn’t feel like it’s just past the train station!)”.