West Thurrock, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

A “seriously dramatic room” plays host to meals in the restored 1873 pump house at Chatham’s historic dockyard on the Medway, which has been converted into a distillery and restaurant by Bob Russell and his sons Matthew & Stephen. Top Menu Tip – “amazing roasts on Sundays”.

“Love, love, love sitting outside on a summer‘s evening” – this Grade II listed Docklands tavern has a riverside location to die for (10 minutes walk from Canary Wharf and opposite The O2) and a cosy historic interior too. Its days as a foodie magnet are long gone nowadays though – expect OK scoff, but no better than at others in the Fullers chain.

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

It’s “all about the wine, as you might expect” at James Dawson’s “relaxed” wine-bar group, whose branches boast a “splendid list” of “high-quality and well-sourced” bottles. The food is very much “second fiddle”, though “unobjectionable”, while the most interesting venue is the original one, off Fleet Street, “hidden in the vaults of St Bride’s Church”. Top Tip – “go on a Monday night for wine at shop rather than restaurant prices”.

“Love this restaurant which we’ve been going to regularly since it opened!” – this large, modern brasserie has established itself over eight years as one of the best bets for a meal in Stratford’s East Village, thanks to its “friendly service” and a selection of dishes majoring in steaks and roasts from the charcoal oven. “First time and the hard surfaces made the restaurant very noisy, but the food is very tasty!”

“Wow! Every dish has a story to tell and some of them are especially yummy!” at Douglas McMaster’s groundbreaking ‘zero waste’ project, in Hackney Wick’s ‘White Building’ (above the Crate brewery) in a high-ceilinged, white-walled post-industrial space. Considering its hipster credentials and admirable ethos, it has made surprisingly few waves here in the capital since the move from Brighton in 2019. Covid-19 didn’t help, but it now seems to be gaining more recognition. “Sitting at the bar you get an excellent view of the kitchen mechanics creating the delicious dishes. The whole dining experience from source to fork is explained by friendly and knowledgeable staff. A unique dining experience that’s extremely enjoyable”.

This “independently owned and managed” old village inn “in a lovely setting” has been thoroughly stripped out and modernised, providing a comfortable venue for an upbeat menu that features oysters, Cornish caviar and a 500kg Chateaubriand steak to share.

This “great sharing-plates restaurant with very accommodating staff” – and a “good wine selection”, its primary focus – has been a linchpin in the emergence of Peckham’s going-out scene (“I’ve never had a bad meal here: in principle I’m not a fan of small plates but here it all works”).

“Exquisite…”, “Superbly inventive…” – few restaurants attract such consistently superlative feedback and ratings as Rafael Cagali’s “worthy successor to Viajante and The Typing Room” in Bethnal Green’s former town hall. Influenced by his Brazilian heritage, the dishes are “fantastic and unique” with “superb ingredients and precise execution” running through the entire, three-hour tasting menu (which is £245 per person; £180 per person at lunch). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff and the lovely space combine to create an exceptional culinary experience”. The only gripe is the obvious one – it’s mightily pricey. On practically all accounts, though, it’s “worth it” and “seems to get better every time”.

“The quality and simplicity of the fish dishes” – “superbly fresh ingredients served in generous portions” – “speak for themselves” at this classic Thames-bank venue in Wapping (sibling to Essex institution Smith’s of Ongar): a “go-to” for its big fan club, where “the lovely views of the Thames and vibe further add to the great experience”. Top Tip – “the set menu is good value, but if nothing takes your fancy then the à la carte is also reasonably priced”.

This contemporary European venue behind Peckham Rye station is still one of the most interesting restaurants in Peckham (“absurd-sounding, I know, to our parents’ generation, but that makes it very cool!)”. That said, it no longer attracts the superlative ratings of five years ago, and one school of thought finds it “overrated and expensive”. Inspired by the ’bistronomy’ movement of Paris, it serves appropriately “interesting” low-intervention and natural wines.

“A real event, with very complex and often-experimental food” – Gabriel & Patricia Waterhouse’s “temple of high cuisine” started out in his flat and, since 2021, has occupied this Scandi-esque, high-ceilinged, light-filled space near Regent’s Canal. Bookings are available for 1-6 diners and much of the seating is at communal tables, to which the ‘Long Form Menu’ at £155 per person is served at peak times (with cheaper options at quieter times). “There’s practically no choice on wine: either you have the wines provided or you have the non-alcoholic versions (same price)”. All reports agree this is “amazing” cooking – “you might not love it all, but you will certainly find it interesting!” – and there’s a general feeling that it is also “very good value for a great gastronomic experience”. As to the overall set-up, while the odd report says the seating is “a bit rag tag”, most say “don’t be put off by the supperclub set-up or shared tables”.

“Epic!” – “Andy Beynon and his team are so welcoming” and deliver an “absolutely amazing” tasting menu experience at this funky-looking and “super-stylish” venue in Hackney (near London Fields). “You sit at a long, curvaceous, blonde-wooden counter, and service is by the whole kitchen team who are clearly passionate about what they’re doing”. The menu revolves around “inventive fish dishes” from “quality produce” that are “stuffed with really bold flavours”. Top Menu Tip – “loved the aged trout with smoked beurre-blanc. Raw red prawn with prawn head and Riesling sauce. Loved it all”.

“Truly outstanding all round”; star chef Tomos Parry’s now-permanent wood-fire spin-off in a covered courtyard and adjoining railway arch in London Fields has “staff who care, food that’s different and a great buzz without being so loud you can’t have a conversation”. It’s worth it to “go as a crowd so you can get to taste all the fantastic dishes on offer”: typical are Roasted Chicken Rice or Whole Crab with Hay Butter.

“Notably creative dishes chosen for flavour not curiosity” are the hallmark of this community-owned village pub operated by a remarkably young team headed by ex-Goring Hotel chef Alex Yates, 25, and his younger sister Grace, who runs the “engaged and well- informed” front of house (their father, David, is an ex-Balls Bros wine merchant). “The room is a traditional old pub bar smartened without changing its character”. This “good neighbourhood community venture deserves to succeed and is trying very hard”; and “well done them for retaining à la carte as well as tasting menus in the evenings”.