Knaresborough, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

In business for nearly four decades now (est. 1985), this stalwart operation occupies a cosy cellar space in the lower ground of a solid Victorian mansion in the city centre (with a small outside seating area for warmer days). The well-rated, traditional-ish cuisine has something of a meat and steak bias; despite the name, the wine list is not huge, but offers quality vintages from a range of countries up to a little over £100 per bottle.

An “excellent gastropub-with-rooms in a delightful village” – and right on the village green, which has the rare honour of hosting the country’s tallest maypole. Yorkshire hospitality royalty John & Claire Topham, who put the General Tarleton at Ferrensby on the map, are behind its recent national hype, and added award-winning rooms to the picture in 2022. Hearty dishes make the most of local produce and “very professional” staff don’t bat an eyelid if you choose to linger a few hours. PS – they now do pizzas in the garden in summer on Fri/Sat nights.